Things to See and Do in Burgos

Burgos, once the capital of the Kingdom of Castile and an important hub for trade between the Bay of Biscay and inland Spain, is a key stop on the Camino de Santiago. Its stunning 13th-century Gothic cathedral, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, has undergone careful restoration.

Around the cathedral, the city is lively and bustling, with plenty of bars serving delicious tapas, historic sights to explore, and attractive parks and wide boulevards to enjoy.

In the far south of Burgos Province lies the northern edge of the Ribera del Duero wine region, which extends into Valladolid, Segovia, and Soria.

The Ribera covers the upper stretches of the Duero River, one of Europe’s most important wine rivers, which continues through the Toro and Rueda regions before reaching Portugal’s Douro and Porto regions.

The region’s most famous wine is Vega Sicilia, widely regarded as Spain’s finest red and one of the most expensive. In recent years, however, the Pesquera winery, led by Alejandro Fernández, has modernised production, creating wines that, while still not cheap, are more accessible and increasingly well-known.

Mention Burgos and any Spaniard’s mouth will start watering at the thought of its famous lamb. Considered the best in Spain, the local lamb, known as Lechazo, should be unweaned, from the Churra, Castellana, or Ojalada breeds, and roasted in a wood-fired oven.

Look out for the symbol of the Asociación de Asadores de Lechazo de Castilla y León on restaurant doors as a mark of quality. Another culinary icon of Burgos is its morcilla, a black pudding made with rice. While there are many poor industrial versions, an authentic one from a good butcher can be a real delight.

Just 13 km east of Burgos, the Atapuerca excavation site is one of the most important in Europe, and arguably the world. It has been recognised as a World Heritage Site. Palaeontologists have uncovered the oldest human remains in Western Europe, dating back at least 1.1 million years.

The site has been key to the study of human evolution, with discoveries suggesting that early humans left Africa much earlier than previously thought. Some finds may even represent the missing link between Neanderthals and Cro-Magnon humans.

Guided tours are available at the site, and the finds are displayed at the Museo de la Evolución Humana in Burgos city centre. A shuttle bus runs between the museum and Atapuerca (times vary, so check the museum website).

Right across the road from the statue of El Cid, the impressive Museum of Human Evolution is the “offspring” of the Atapuerca excavation site just outside Burgos.

Opened in 2010, the museum is modern, high-tech, and well worth a visit.

A shuttle bus runs from the museum out to the Atapuerca site itself (times vary – check the museum website).
www.museoevolucionhumana.com

Las Merindades, in the north-east of Burgos province, cover a vast area and are home to some of Spain’s best-kept secrets, including Oña, Frías, and Medina de Pomar.

Now seemingly in the middle of nowhere, these villages are a testament to the wealth that once flowed through the region in medieval times thanks to the wool trade, at one point forming the economic powerhouse of Castile.

If you’re in Burgos for two or more days, it’s well worth making the trip. You’ll find plenty of spots for lunch in Medina de Pomar and Frías, and in Frías you can even join the locals for a swim in the river beneath the town’s striking Romanesque bridge..

Founded by the Romans on the River Oca, and one of the first towns in Castile to have a castle after being granted its fueros by Fernán González in 950, Oña today is very much a quiet backwater – but a very pretty one.

The main square is set on different levels and is dominated by the monastery – now a psychiatric hospital – and the church, which can be visited.

Dominated by the ruins of its 12th century castle, which are definitely worth a visit, and oversized medieval bridge Frias is true picture-postcard Castillian village.

There are a good handful of bars below the castle where you can sample or buy the black pudding and lamb for which Burgos is famous and afterwards cool off with a dip in the Ebro.

Once home to the powerful Velasco family, the Constables of Castile, who left their mark with an imposing castle and the notable 14th-century Monasterio de Santa Clara.

Seemingly untouched by time, Covarrubias is the quintessential medieval village of Old Castile.

There’s a Mozarabic tower, but it’s the town itself, with its half-timbered houses and porticoed squares, that is the main attraction. For many, sampling the local lechazo lamb, roasted in wood-burning ovens, is an essential part of the experience.

Don’t miss trying the local red wines of Arlanza, similar to those of Ribera del Duero; though just outside the Denominación de Origen area, they usually offer very good value.

Founded in pre-Roman times, Lerma reached its peak under the Duke of Lerma, who ruled Spain as the favourite of Philip III from 1598 to 1618.

An elegant town for its size, it boasts a grand Plaza Mayor dominated by the Ducal Palace-built atop the ruins of an ancient castle and now serving as a Parador-opposite the collegiate church of San Pedro, overlooking the Arlanza River.

A pleasant town to explore on foot, Lerma is a favourite escape for the people of Burgos, with plenty of inviting bars and restaurants.

Famous for its Benedictine monastery, Santo Domingo is a perfect example of Romanesque architecture, featuring an exquisitely beautiful 11th-century cloister where you can hear the monks’ Gregorian chants. Originally of Visigothic origin, the monastery was destroyed by the Arabs and later rebuilt by Santo Domingo, whose remains rest in a sarcophagus carved from the rock.

The village itself is pleasant, if a little sleepy, but the monastery draws visitors, and there are some nice places to eat locally.