Things to See and Do in Cantabria - Picos de Europa

There are so many things to see and do on the Cantabrian side of the Picos de Europa we usually recommend at least 2 nights if visiting the on a short break or as as part of a broader tour of northern Spain, or at least 3 nights for keen walkers or if you want to explore the coast.

Here’s our guide covering all the Picos de Europa highlights in Western Cantabria…

At the eastern end of the Picos de Europa, in the province of Cantabria, lies the beautiful Valle de Liébana. Accessed by way of the vertiginous gorge of La Hermida and protected on all sides by towering, rocky mountains which ensure the valley a benign micro-climate, this is the perfect base from which to explore the Picos de Europa.

At the centre of the valley is the medieval town of Potes which, though busy in the summer, is well preserved and retains its authentic character. Here, as well as the excellent cheeses, pastries and liqueurs, you’ll find all finds of mountain activities on offer. Dotted around the valley are countless tiny villages and hamlets - head up to Cahecho for spectacular views, Mogrovejo where they made a film version of Heidi or Pendes to marvel at the awesome 1000-year-old chestnut trees.

Other attractions include the monastery of Santo Toribio, a major pilgrimage destination, said to house a piece of the True Cross and no visit would be complete without a ride up to the giddying heights in the cable car at Fuente Dé.

Tucked into a hollow by the river Deva in the sleepy village of Lebeña, you couldn’t ask for a more idyllic setting for this most exquisite, little, Pre-Romanesque (Mozarabic) church.

Built in 925, and flanked by an olive tree and stub of a yew tree of the same age, it is as impressive as any of the more famous churches in the region.

Though restored little over a century ago, Mozarabic elements remain along with Visigothic and Celtic features. A true delight.

The little village of Mogrovejo, between Potes and Fuente De, must be one of Cantabria's prettiest.

Its location alone, with the dramatic Andara massif as a backdrop and the craggy Monte Subiedes with its colony of vultures at the fore, is stunning. With its imposing medieval tower, charming C17th church and handsome traditional houses, it is not surprising that it was chosen as the location for the unfortunately never-released "Heidi".

Enjoy a drink and a tapa at one its family run bars and soak in the atmosphere and the panoramic views.

There are delightful little churches and chapels, full of history, to discover in almost all the villages and hamlets in Liebana.

The jewel in the crown must be at Piasca. A tiny, sleepy, red-roofed farming village, 10 kms above Potes, it boasts a beautiful Romanesque church, one of the best examples of its type. At one time a monastery (930) shared by monks and nuns, it was transformed into a church in 1172 and is particularly notable for its interesting carvings, especially over the main doorway.

Not far away in Torices, set high on the wooded slopes of Pena Sagra, the tiny and simple church of San Martin, with Romanesque vestiges and a Baroque altarpiece, is well worth the climb up. Apart from the building itself, the views of the mountains from here are absolutely stunning.

The road which joins the main towns of Potes in Cantabria and Riaño in León, is one of the most spectacular drives in the north of Spain.

The highest altitude reached is 1,600 mt, where you'll find a picnic area.

Riaño occuoies a spectacular setting surrounded by reservoirs with a wonderful mountainous backdrop and, though modern (the original village is under the water) is well worth the visit. On a hot day the municipal outdoor swimming pool, set right by the lake, is a great pace for a spot of lunch and a refreshing dip.

The Monastery of Santo Toribio of Liebana (near to Potes in the Cantabrian mountains) stands alongside Jerusalem, Rome, Santiago de Compostela and Caravaca de la Cruz as one of only five places with the privilege to celebrate a Holy Year, granted by a Papal Bull from Julius II in 1512.

The privilege was granted as Santo Toribio guards the largest piece of the holy cross - the Lignum Crucis - brought here in the 7th century to protect it from the Moors.

Another memorable little outing well worth taking, is to the tiny farming village of Pendes, high up above Tama, another location for the never-released Heidi film.

More importantly, it is home to over two hundred millenary chestnut trees “El Castanar Milenario del Habario”. A magical and unique spot, with a mirador “El Corral de los Moros” with remains of a medieval defense, giving you a most spectacular view of the valleys of Liebana, the Picos and the Desfiladero gorge.

To add to these attractions, Pendes has a wonderful, family run Cheese factory “Queseria Las Branas”, where you can sample and buy a range of their tasty mountain cheeses.

Liebana, with its Mediterranean like climate, has produced wine since Roman times, but in the last century various plagues put a virtual end to that. Fortunately, in recent times, young entrepreneurs have re-introduced the grape and once again the hillsides are covered in vines and wine is a thriving business.

Visit one of the bodegas at Cabariezo, off the Palencia road, not far from Potes, for a guided visit and tastings. Not only do they produce a very acceptable wine (reds mostly) with Mencia grapes, but also the local “eau de vie”, arguadiente de orujo and an award winning gin “As de Picos”, said to be amongst the best in the world! 

You shouldn’t leave Liebana without a visit to this delightful, privately owned, ethnographic museum, depicting rural life in the region in the
late C19th and early C20th.

A beautifully and lovingly restored home, as you enter you genuinely feel that the family who lived there are still there or have just gone out on an errand.
The contents, some belonging to the present owners, from sheets and blankets to pots and pans and the original “alquitara” for brewing aguardiente de orujo, awaken your senses and smells and give you a real picture of the people of these mountain valleys.
Book in advance www.casadelasdoñas.es

Enterrias (off N621 between Vega de Liebana and Puerto San Glorio)
Guided visits only which last 90 minutes.
Opening times:15th June – 15th October: 12.00 -14.00 and 16.00 – 19.00. Closed on Mondays. Rest of the year: Fridays: 16.00 – 19.00. Saturdays and Sundays and bank holidays: 12.00 – 14.00 and 16.00 – 19.00.

Tel: 0034 674233610.