Things to See and Do in León

The monumental city of León, set along the Pilgrims’ Route to Santiago, had twenty-four kings before Castile even had laws! In medieval times, weary travellers found refuge in its hospices - most famously the Hostal de San Marcos, once a monastery and now a magnificent Parador hotel. Pilgrims also came for spiritual inspiration in its splendid cathedral, and today León still offers all the sights that first drew them here.

The Gothic Cathedral, with its breathtaking stained-glass windows - said to rival those of Chartres - is truly unmissable. Other highlights include the Romanesque Basilica of San Isidoro, home to remarkable 12th-century frescoes and what many believe to be the true Holy Grail; Casa de los Botines, designed by Gaudí in the 19th century; the elegant Palacio de los Guzmanes; and the city’s Contemporary Art Museum.

Beyond its monuments, León has plenty more to offer: excellent traditional food and wine, great shopping, and a lively atmosphere - especially at weekends. Don’t miss the Barrio Húmedo, the old quarter where almost every doorway opens onto a bustling bar and the streets come alive with tapas, chatter and good humour.

Spain is full of great surprises, and the 13th-century Cathedral of Santa María in the city of León is certainly one of them. Modelled on Chartres for its interior and on Notre Dame for its exterior, it houses the finest stained glass in Spain and the second best in all of Europe - an astonishing 19,000 square feet of it. The colours seem to leap out at you, especially when the late afternoon sun streams through and sets them ablaze. The exterior, beautifully illuminated at night, is also a truly magical sight.

El Barrio Húmedo, literally the “wet quarter,” in León is a paradise for food lovers – the sheer variety of tapas is astonishing.

Right in the heart of the old town, you’ll be spoilt for choice: traditional mesones serving tempting tapas, family-run restaurants offering hearty regional dishes, and elegant venues showcasing modern cuisine.

Don’t forget the excellent wines from the El Bierzo region – crisp Godello whites and fruity Mencía reds.

The area is always lively, with music adding to the buzzing atmosphere.

This early Romanesque basilica has long been a must-visit for pilgrims on the Camino, as it houses the remains of San Isidoro in a silver urn at the church altar, brought north from Muslim-occupied Seville in 1063.

Even more compelling are the stunning 12th-century frescoes on the domed ceiling of the Pantheon of the Kings of León. Their vibrant, free-flowing forms are truly breathtaking.

Adding to the allure, the Pantheon’s museum is a treasure in itself, home to the gem-studded chalice “La Caliz de Doña Urraca”, which many leading historians now believe to be the authentic Holy Grail.

Villafranca del Bierzo, in the heart of the El Bierzo region in León, sits at the confluence of the rivers Burbia and Valcarcél.

This charming town is not to be missed on the pilgrims' route to Santiago de Compostela. Once the capital of Galicia, now known as “little Santiago,” it delights visitors with its medieval streets and impressive buildings: the 12th-century Iglesia de Santiago, where weary or ill pilgrims could have their sins forgiven at the "Puerta del Perdón"; the imposing church of San Francisco; the 17th-century San Nicolás; the 16th-century Colegiata; the 15th-century castle; and the unique Calle de Agua - all transporting you back to a glorious past.

Las Médulas, in the El Bierzo region not far from Ponferrada, was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997.

It is an incredibly dramatic and beautiful landscape, with undulating rock formations that bring to mind the Wild West. The site was first created by the Romans in their search for gold.

They harnessed the power of local rivers and used thousands of slaves to dig galleries in the mountains-one over 25 miles long-to extract the gold, shaping a bizarre landscape resembling a jagged spinal cord.

Las Médulas are particularly spectacular in spring and autumn, when the ancient chestnut trees are in bloom or in full leaf.

Known locally as “la ciudad dormida” (the sleeping city), Astorga seems almost like a mirage as you approach it from a distance, yet it is very much alive and full of cultural surprises for its size.

The most important city in north-west Spain during the Roman Empire and the capital of La Maragatería (their famous “mantecadas,” small sponge cakes, are available in all the cake shops), its main attractions within the remaining Roman walls include the impressive Gothic cathedral with its fine Renaissance choir stalls and altarpiece, the neo-Gothic Episcopal Palace designed by Antonio Gaudí in accordance with the wishes of the Catalan bishop, and the attractive Baroque Town Hall, built in 1683, where two figures in traditional Maragato dress strike the hour - fun to watch from one of the cafés in the main square.

Part of the Town Hall houses the Museo Romano (closed Sundays and Mondays), which displays spectacular murals from the second century B.C., and there are ruins of Roman houses elsewhere in the town. Another unexpected delight in Astorga is its chocolate, sold everywhere in amazing forms. Don’t miss the Museo del Chocolate (closed Mondays), which tells the story of chocolate’s origins and production since Aztec times.

It is hard to find a more unique and little-known area than Los Ancares, on the border of León and Galicia. Rich in flora and fauna, these dramatic mountains feature indigenous forests, stunning vegetation, and charming valleys watered by clear rivers and streams, dotted with vegetable patches.

The area has been inhabited for over two thousand years. Typical Celtic dwellings - round stone thatched buildings called pallozas - sit alongside medieval castles, pre-Romanesque churches, and pre-Roman castros.

Walking through Los Ancares feels like stepping into another world, far from modern worries, with breathtaking views and the sound of silence that linger long in the memory.

Not far from Astorga lies the wonderfully preserved Castrillo de los Polvasares, one of the principal villages of the Maragatería. Just off the Camino de Santiago, with a stream nearby, sheep grazing in the meadows, cobbled streets, and beautifully restored golden stone houses, it truly transports you back to the days when muleteers passed through with their mule trains on long, arduous journeys to Galicia.

The village is lively on weekends and in summer, as locals and tourists alike come to enjoy the famous chickpea stew, Cocido Maragato, at the many restaurants. At other times, especially in the evenings once the crowds have gone, its peace and quiet create a very special, almost magical atmosphere.

From Castrillo de los Polvasares to Ponferrada

Leave the main road and motorway behind and follow the route taken by pilgrims and the Maragatos through the Montes of León towards El Bierzo and Ponferrada. From Santa Catalina de Somaza, pass through abandoned and semi-abandoned villages until you reach the Iron Cross at Foncebadón, sitting at 4,500 feet.

Brought here by French pilgrims many years ago, a huge pile of granite stones has been laid at its base by passing pilgrims, who believed this act of penance would bring good fortune. The tradition continues, and so does the pile!

From here, descend into the fertile valleys of El Bierzo, passing through the haunting, abandoned village of Manjarín and then the more populated Acebo and Compludo. Don’t miss San Fructuoso’s forge-the first holy man in El Bierzo-known as the Herrería de Compludo, dating back to the 7th century and still in operation today.

Return to the present as you continue down to picturesque Molinaseca, with its Roman bridge and charming old quarter, offering some excellent spots to stop for refreshments before heading on to Ponferrada.

Not for the faint-hearted, but perfect for those with an adventurous spirit, take the narrow, steep, and winding road south of Ponferrada into the aptly named Valley of Silence.

Words cannot capture the beauty here. From San Esteban de Valdueza-peacefully set by the Rio Oza and with a good bar/restaurant-you begin the climb up to the Montes, where you’ll find the ruins of San Pedro del Monte, founded by San Fructuoso.

The real reward, however, lies higher up at the medieval hamlet of Peñalba de Santiago, with its exquisite little Mozarabic church and the hermit’s cave of San Genadio.

Northwest of Ponferrada, in the heart of wine country, lies the quirky town of Cacabelos. With its slate-roofed, porticoed houses clustered around the main square, it was once an important stop on the Camino de Santiago, boasting five hospitals at one point.

Today, aside from its wines, Cacabelos is best known for the church of Nuestra Señora de Las Angustias, where baby Jesus is depicted floating on a cloud, playing cards with St. Anthony.

Nearby, the extensive vineyards of Prada A Tope are well worth a visit. The owner, once a shoemaker and now a successful entrepreneur, provides employment to many locals and has built the impressive Palacio de Canedo. The complex includes a hotel, bar, restaurant, and a fantastic shop selling everything from wine to soap, red pepper marmalade, and face cream-a perfect place for gifts.

A little further south and well worth the detour is the Benedictine Monastery of Carracedo, founded in 990.

Standing above the Río Sil in the heart of Ponferrada, the Castle of the Templars, with its triple ramparts built to protect pilgrims from the Moors on their way to Santiago, is a fine example of 13th-century military architecture. (Closed on Mondays)

El Bierzo, a rich and fertile area watered by streams and rivers, is one of Spain’s most important fruit-growing regions and is also an emerging wine area. It produces excellent red wines from the indigenous Mencía grape, introduced by the Romans.

Once a relatively light wine, recent innovations have produced deep, purple-red wines bursting with fruit and flavour. The golden, fruity whites made from Godello grapes are also gaining recognition.

These wines pair perfectly with local culinary delights such as thinly sliced cecina (cured, dried beef), fresh trout stuffed with ham, roasted red peppers, and botillo – a hearty stew made from pork products, ideal on a cold winter’s day.

El Bierzo has 55 wineries worth visiting. Notable names include Tilenus, Pittacum, Dominio de Tares, Pétalos, Casar de Burbia, and Prada A Tope, crafted by a former hippy shoemaker turned successful entrepreneur. Each offers wines that awaken the senses and leave you wanting more Mencía.