Things to See and Do in Navarra

Known the world over for the running of the bulls in the San Fermin fiestas in early July, Pamplona is well worth a visit whatever time of year. A wealthy city of great parks, most notably that inside the ancient citadel, and grand avenues here you will find great shopping and bars as well as fine museums and art galleries most notably the Museum of Navarra and the Oteiza Museum.

Pamplona, at the heart of Navarra, also boasts a fine gastronomy, closely linked to the neighbouring Basque cuisine yet with its own character with the finest market garden produce and of course the fine wines for which the region is now famous.

In medieval times a pilgrimage would have started at your front door, but these days the majority opt to start at the Spanish frontier and where better than Roncesvalles, a beautiful hamlet famous for the defeat of Charlemagne and the death of Roland in the battle of Ronceveaux Pass in 778. From there it’s an easy start, downhill all the way to Pamplona west of which the Camino enters in Navarra’s famous wine country, look out for the bodegas of Irache and Castillo de Monjardin and don’t miss historic Puente la Reina. The Navarran part of the Camino ends in Viana where César Borgia, inspiration for Machiavelli’s Prince & son of the infamous papal dynasty came to escape Rome.

In the northeast corner of Navarra, the rolling green scenery erupts into high, rocky mountains as we enter the Pyrenees proper. Here, the peaks rise to over 2000m but are still quite accessible and offer spectacular views; amongst the most famous are Orhi at just over 2000m, but easily accessible from the pass of Larrau and Mesa de Los Tres Reyes, which rises to 2438m and marks the border with Huesca and France (hence the three kings of its name).

The magnificent forest of Irati is a haven for walkers, mountaineers and nature lovers alike and the area as a whole offers some of the best bird watching in Europe with colonies of vultures and large birds of prey as well as a host of migratory species. The lovely traditional towns of Ochagavia and Isaba are the main centres and in either you will find a host of mountain activities on offer.

In north-west Navarra, where the Pyrenees come down to meet the coast lie the verdant valleys of Baztan and Bidasoa. Here the impeccably kept villages and indeed life itself seem to be untouched by the passage of time. Visit historic Lesaka, Wellington's base for the battle of Bera de Bidasoa and where they celebrate their own small scale version of San Fermin, investigate themysterious Agote people in Arizkun, take the train or climb to the top of Larrun, with the best possible views of the Bay of Biscay or simply wander around the many beautiful villages such as Etxalar.

Villages of particular interest are Arizkun, Amaiur, Erratzu and Ziga (here don’t miss the house / art gallery of Jesus Montes opposite the small chapel at the entrance to the town) in the Baztan; Etxalar and Lesaka in the Bidasoa. El Señorio de Bertiz is an arboretum and nature park with a very good tourist office and children’s activities. There is a lovely walk up to the abandoned palace of Aitkolegui for the moderately energetic. 

With its old town clustered around a fairy-tale castle looking out over the vineyards, Olite is well worth a visit. The castle, or more correctly palace, constructed as it was to house the Kings of Navarra, was built between the 13th and 15th centuries and suffered much damage in the Napoleonic wars. Restoration work began at the turn of the 20th century and continues to this day. Combine a visit with a wander round the old town or a visit to a bodega or, if castles are really your thing, go on to the magnificent Artajona or Ujue to the north.

One of the first important staging posts on the Camino de Santiago as it comes down from the Pyrenees, Puente la Reina, named after its famous Roman bridge over the Rio Arga, is a real step back in time and well worth a visit. Apart from the bridge itself which since the 11th century has carried pilgrims westward there are some lovely churches from the same period and an old town which still retains its medieval feel.

A host of native birds of prey and some of Europe's largest colonies of Griffon Vulture (20,000 breeding pairs!) make birdwatching in Navarra exciting at any time of year. Add to this the hordes of migratory birds which pass through the region which acts as a funnel between Northern Europe and warmer southerly climes and you know you're in for a treat. In 2007 the local government launched a strong initiative "Birding" (see download) to promote birdwatching in Navarra so you'll find a warm welcome wherever you go. 

Often overshadowed by neighbouring Rioja, though well known lately for its affordable reds, there is much more to Navarran wine. The Denominación de Origen has given its producers more freedom in its choice of grape than other regions, resulting in some excellent varietals. Here you'll find not only the traditional Tempranillo and Garnacha, but Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, and some surprisingly good Chardonnay and dessert wines. Olite is a good place to start, but any local tourist board has details of wine routes and bodegas to visit.

La Ribera ‘The Garden of Navarra' - with its bounty of peppers, artichokes, asparagus and wine, is a gourmet’s delight. Here they take their veg very seriously indeed, proof of which is the celebration in Tudela every May a week of ‘Exaltation of Vegetables’. The local speciality is called a Menestra, a vegetable stew with the best of everything and what better than a local Navarran chardonnay to accompany it!

Set among the rising foothills of the Pyrenees, where northern Navarra borders with the French Pais Basque, Roncesvalles, or Orreaga to give it its Basque name, is the start point for many setting off on the Camino de Santiago. This tiny village was first made famous due to the legendary battle of Roncesvalles, where the Basque tribes defeated the forces of the mighty Emperor Charlemagne, and for the death of Roland, one of the French leaders, immortalized in the Chanson de Roland.

Due to its historical importance and strategic position on the Camino, providing rest for pilgrims directly after crossing the Pyrenees, there has been an important Collegiate church and hospital here since the middleages.

Nowadays there are more places to stay and a couple of bar /restaurants, but it has not become overdeveloped and, positioned between the immense forests of Irati and Quinta Real, with mountains all around and St Jean Pied de Port over the mountain pass, it can make a great rest-stop as part of a day out.

Elizondo is the main centre of the Baztán valley with an active community of artists and many galleries. There’s a good indoor / outdoor swimming pool and plenty of bars and restaurants.

The town is recently achieved fame in Spain for being the setting of the Baztán Trilogy by Dolores Redondo – now available in English and a good read if you like a thriller.

Bera de Bidasoa serves as the main market town for the Bidasoa region and has an active community of artists like Elizondo. The town, on the French border, was the scene of the last Spanish battle of Wellington’s Peninsular Campaign. 

Nearby Lesaka is a beautifully preserved village where Wellington was stationed during the siege of San Sebastian. A lovely place just to wander around with some very good bars don’t miss the Zialdo by the river and Bar Casino on the square (serving the best tortilla de patatas in Christendom). In early July Lesaka celebrates its own San Fermines – not quite Pamplona but quite a party!

Technically in France but if you’re in the north of Navarra don’t miss the ‘Tren de La Rhune’: from the neighbourhood of San Ignacio, Sare - this wooden train, built in 1924 takes visitors to the top of La Rhune, the first of the Pyrenean mountains, 905m high with fantastic views of the whole bay of Biscay. Try to pick a clear day to make the most of the views and avoid the weekend to avoid the crowds. The beautifully preserved village of Sare is worth a visit too.

You can walk to the top of Larrun from the Lizarrieta mountain pass just north of Bera de Bidasoa.

Caves at Zugarramurdi and Urdax - limestone caves famous for their connections with witchcraft with many witches burned at the stake at the height of the Inquisition. Both are set in beautiful towns to visit.

Maybe it's the lofty escarpments on either side or maybe the vultures circling overhead but there's something about riding a horse through the Foz de Arbayun in Navarra reminiscent of the good old fashioned cowboy movies.

The base is the Hipica de Arbayun in the village of Usun and they have excursions for all abilities, call us or ask in any local tourist office for more details.

Sprawling across the high Pyrenees of eastern Navarra, the forest of Irati is Europe's second largest beech / fir forest and surely one of the most beautiful woodlands anywhere in the world. A paradise for nature lovers and walkers alike there's certainly room for everyone to find their own space here. For a bit of fun with the family why not rent a Segway and get exploring! Irati Magikoa in Orbaitzeta (the gateway to the forest) rent out the Segways or mountain bikes if you prefer.

At the southern tip of Navarra, in contrast to the green rolling hills of the north and the market gardens and vineyards of the Ribera region, we find 'Las Bardenas Reales' Europe's northernmost desert - a dramatic landscape stolen straight from the cowboy movies! This Natural Park and UNESCO biosphere reserve is a truly unique environment and how better to explore it than by mountain bike. Bring your own or rent in nearby Arguedas, there are clearly marked routes to help you get the most out of the visit - or if you're really keen why not come for the Extreme Bardenas event in June, 6 to 8 gruelling hours in the saddle. Whichever way you choose to get around don't forget your camera!

The Via Verde de Bidasoa, a refurbished train line, runs 44km from Donestebe all the way to Irun at the coast. Mostly flat and either gravel or concrete, with most of the tunnels now lit and paved, it runs parallel to the river Bidasoa and makes for a great days cycling with the family – or even just for a peaceful walk. Bikes are available to rent in Donestebe Bertiz BTT Centro - Tel: 0034 948 450 028

In Elizondo and Leasaka there are recently opened open-air / covered pool complexes both with heated children’s pool, mini spa, gymnasium and sauna / solarium.

Just over the border on the French side there is the lake at St Peé sur Nivelle which has a sandy beach, boats for rent, swings and slides and plenty for children as well as lakeside walks and bars and restaurants.

The spa at Elorriaga has been totally rebuilt and reopened for 2010. The attraction here is that the waters, which come from a natural spring, are very saline indeed - over 70%. Not recommended for children due to the stinging effect.

The French Basque coast (about 30 mins from Bera 50 mins' drive from Elizondo) has no end of lovely beaches and seaside resorts. St Jean de Luz and Hendays both have large swathes of golden sand and in between Sokoa / Ciboure have nice family beaches and a lovely castle to explore. Biarritz with its curious mixture of surf culture and Belle Époque architecture is only a little further away.

On the Spanish side Hondarribia has a nice beach (though more crowded) and has a beautifully preserved old town and fisherman’s quarter and San Sebastian is only a little further on at 40mins' / 1hr 10mins' drive.