Things to See and do in Eastern Asturias & Picos de Europa

Rich Heritage

History is everywhere in Asturias. The dinosaurs got here first and left footprints behind by the beaches of the Dinosaur Coast near Lastres. Prehistoric man lived in caves and later in Celtic castros. Moors battled with Christians at Covadonga, and pre-Asturians built exquisite churches.

At one time the capital of Christian Spain and the last bastion against the Moorish invasion, the grand old city of Oviedo boasts a rich architectural history, including a magnificent cathedral and some of the best pre-Romanesque churches from the 8th and 9th centuries. 

More recently, the city has been made famous by Fernando Alonso and has featured prominently in Woody Allen’s film Vicky Cristina Barcelona. There is great shopping among the medieval archways, along with plenty of bars and restaurants to sample fine Asturian gastronomy.

With examples dating back to the 8th century, when it was the last outpost of Christianity on the peninsula, Asturias is home to Spain’s finest collection of pre-Romanesque architecture.

The style is said to derive from the Goths, who invaded in the 5th century, and there are fine examples to be seen at Santa María del Naranco just outside Oviedo, Santianes de Pravia near Pravia, once the capital, and Santiago de Gobiendes near Colunga and the lovely Playa de Isla.

Come and explore the exciting Dinosaur Coast between Ribadesella and Villaviciosa, tracking down giant dinosaur footprints along the way and visiting the impressive Jurassic Museum at Colunga.

The Jurassic Museum, shaped like a dinosaur footprint, explains the period from 250 million years ago to 65 million years BC, including the Jurassic period when dinosaurs roamed the Earth.

It contains an amazing collection of fossil specimens and vertebrate remains and is a visit that will delight all ages.

At the very heart of the Picos de Europa National Park, 1,134 metres above sea level, lie the two glacial lakes of Enol and Ercina, known as the Lagos de Covadonga due to their proximity to the basilica and shrine dedicated to the Virgin of the same name.

She is said to have inspired the first significant Christian victory over the Moors on this very site in 722.

The lakes are also famous for featuring in the Vuelta de España cycle race, one of its toughest climbs, won by the Scot Robert Millar in 1984.

One of Spain’s most famous mountain routes, and rightly so, the Ruta del Cares follows the Río Cares from Poncebos, the most popular starting point, to Caín through spectacular mountain scenery.

As the path follows a trail originally carved out for the canalisation of water, it is generally quite flat and there is no danger of getting lost.

The route covers 12 km and can be busy in summer, so be sure to take water, a hat and sunscreen, as there are no fountains along the way.

Don’t be put off by the drive past or into the city. At its centre, Avilés has a lovely historic old town that is well worth a visit, and the ultra-modern Niemeyer Centre just across the river provides an almost shocking contrast.

Cangas de Onís, once the first court of the Asturian kings and the first capital of reconquered Spain, boasts a beautiful medieval stone bridge at the entrance to the town.

It is a busy and popular place, especially on Sundays when the market is held. From here you can visit nearby Covadonga in the foothills of the Picos de Europa and the famous shrine to the Virgin of Covadonga, affectionately known as La Santina, who is said to have aided the Asturians in their struggle against the Moors.

From Cangas de Onís you can also head south through the magnificent Desfiladero de Beyos gorge, which leads to the southern side of the Picos de Europa.

Llanes sits on the craggy coastline at the eastern end of the Asturian Costa Verde, nestled beneath the mountains of the Sierra de Cuera.

A traditional fishing town, with some areas virtually unchanged since medieval times, Llanes is now a popular resort for Spanish tourists and can be very lively in summer. 

Well placed for exploring Asturias, the Picos de Europa and western Cantabria, and with three beaches within the town itself, its popularity is easily understood.

Just west of the Villaviciosa estuary, Tazones is a pretty little fishing town nestled in a cove.

Recently it has become a little touristy, a victim of its own success, but it still offers a fine selection of eateries and is well worth a visit for lunch outside peak times.

This is a permanent exhibition dedicated to the Bearded Vulture or Lammergeyer (Quebrantahuesos), a species that disappeared from the Picos de Europa more than sixty years ago but has since been successfully reintroduced to the area by the Foundation for the Conservation of the Bearded Vulture.

There is a large model with life-size recreations of more than thirty species of fauna and flora from the Picos in Asturias, along with various interactive panels and biological samples.

Audiovisual displays and spectacular photographs further explain the importance of conserving the natural environment and traditional grazing in the Picos.

The centre also organises four-hour visits to the nearby vulture feeding grounds on Fridays from June to September.

Right on the Cantabrian border, just over the bridge from Unquera, Colombres is a pretty little village with a fine Casona de Indianos at its centre, now home to the archive records of the Indianos themselves, Asturians who made their fortunes in Latin America.

There are several small shops and a pleasant market on Thursday mornings.

Nearby are the Cuevas de Pindal and the lovely beach of Playa de la Franca.

Arriondas is the place to start the descent of the Río Sella and, along with nearby Cangas de Onís, serves as the gateway to the Asturian side of the Picos de Europa.

It is a good base for arranging all kinds of mountain activities. Lively in summer, the town offers plenty of shops, bars and restaurants.

On the first Saturday after 2 August, the Festival of the International Descent of the Río Sella is held. In recent years this has become quite raucous and is best avoided unless you are in a serious party mood, as traffic is also difficult throughout the surrounding area on that day.

At the very heart of Asturias’s “Cider Country”, Villaviciosa is now a fairly quiet market town.

There are several attractive churches to visit, but the main draw is its traditional Asturian cider houses, which come to life in October when the town hosts the annual Fiesta de la Manzana.

Nearby are the excellent beaches of Rodiles and Tazones, and there is also a very nice municipal golf course beside the river estuary.

Dating back to Roman times and possibly beyond, Gijón is now a large city and bustling port but also boasts a stunning crescent of sandy beach, a delightful Old Town and a fascinating collection of Modernista architecture. 

You can visit the remains of the Roman baths just behind the Plaza Mayor, or head out to Cimadevilla, the headland where the city was first settled and where a sculpture by Eduardo Chillida now stands.

On a rainy day there are several good options, but for families the Aquarium de Gijón, near Playa de Poniente, is a popular choice. Another alternative is the seawater spa and thalassotherapy centre Talasoponiente, at the eastern end of the beach, which also has a play area for children.

At the mouth of the Río Sella, which flows directly from the Picos de Europa and is very popular for canoeing, Ribadesella is a lively seaside town with lovely sheltered beaches and fine mountain views inland.

Good for shopping or simply mooching about, the town is also home to the Tito Bustillo caves, an important example of prehistoric cave painting, though they can be somewhat difficult to visit - book ahead!

Nestled at the foot of the Sierra del Sueve, rising to over 1,100 metres, the still-active fishing port of Lastres has a charm all of its own and is not yet dominated by tourism.

Chosen as the setting for Spain’s version of TV’s Doc Martin, the village and its coastline do bear some resemblance to Cornwall, although the grand colonial buildings, palm trees brought back by adventurers to Latin America, and the abundance of seafood on offer soon remind you that you are somewhere quite different.

Lastres has its own town beach and the beautiful beaches of La Griega and La Isla are just nearby. The MUJA Jurassic Museum is just outside the town and dinosaur footprints can be seen all along this stretch of coast. 

This is probably the most interactive of all the museums in Asturias.

Its main aim is to encourage visitors to take part in every process related to the world of cider. Learn how it's made and, more importantly, how to pour it like a native!

Young children can play a game of skittles in a virtual skittle alley and try their hand at an electronic bagpipe.

https://museodelasidra.com/en/

Mining has for centuries been of great importance in Asturias, playing a key role in the region’s economy and politics.

The museum includes a mock-up mine that gives visitors a realistic sense of the mining experience and makes it a good option for a rainy day.

Museo de la Mineria y de La Industria. Near Langreo www.mumi.es  

A gem of a beach near Colunga and Lastres which somehow never seems to get overcrowded.

Sandy with pebbly outcrops, the beach is somewhat proteted by a small island (hence the name) and is great for families and for paddle-surf beginners (boards are available to rent)

There are a handful of bars and restaurants including a nice chirringuito in front of the hotel.

Roman remains on the western side of the beach.

Between Colunga and Lastres. A vast sandy beach with rocky outcrops with the Sierra del Sueve as a backdrop.

At the top of the beach there's a walkway to teh rocks where you can see the dinosaur footprints on the rocks..

Ther are a couple of bars nearby and a row of restaurants on the western side where you can enjoy a the local seafood and the stunning beach views.

Bewteen Llanes and Ribadesella This very small cove- interesting caves at low tide.

Popular with rock-climbers (interesting to watch while you're sunbathing or enjoying a refreshment) there's also a nice jazzy bar-cafe right by the beach. Nearby Nueva is a nice village and has plenty more bars etc.

West of Llanes and Celorio a lovely family beach with rock pools where you may even find large shrimps, octopus etc. A fantastic setting!

Barro also has a nice selection of bars and restaurants

Between Colombres and Llanes this is the most easterly beach in Asturias and one of its best!

Especially good at low tide when the cove opens up with interesting rocks and caves to explore.

There's a bar serving snacks and refreshments and the hotel at the top of the beach has a good restaurant.

These two 'wild' beaches between Ribadesella and Colunga are popular with surfers and in recent years have become fashionable with a certain hippy-chic style.

There are a handful of bars and restaurants at the eastern end of Playa Vega including the fashionable Gueyo Mar - but don't expect a cheapy!