Everything you need to know for a short break in Porto and the Douro Valley
There are so many things to see and do in Porto and Douro Valley we usually recommend at least 5/7 nights, whether on a short trip combining both or as part of a broader tour around Portugal – click here for more details about our Portuguese itineraries. Here’s our guide covering all the Porto and Douro Valley highlights…
Charming Porto – The Unvanquished City
Posed majestically on the rocky cliffs overlooking the grand River Douro, Porto, the birthplace of the world-renowned port, is Portugal’s second largest city and voted best European destination 2017.
Steeped in history and tradition, Porto is known as the “Cidade Invicta” or “The Unvanquished City” for standing undefeated against many invasions. Highly atmospheric, still nicely unspoilt and laid back, over the last twenty years, this charming city has seen a remarkable renaissance, with startling modern architecture blending in happily with the many ancient monuments and landmarks.
A fascinating journey back in time, over different centuries, from its medieval historic centre by the river, the Ribeira district, a Unesco World Heritage site, the 18th century port wine lodges across the waters and the monumental bridge, Ponte Dom Luis 1, to the C12th century Se (cathedral) and the fine Baroque churches Sao Francisco, Sao Lourenzo, Santa Clara, the neoclassical Palacio da Bolsa (stock exchange)… the list goes on!
Along with interesting museums including Casa do Infante, where Henry the Navigator was born, art galleries, romantic gardens, impressive plazas, amazing azulejos (hand painted tiles) at Sao Bento train station and Igreja do Carmo, there is excellent shopping too, especially on Rua Santa Catarina. Great music from traditional Portuguese Fado to classical concerts can be heard at Rem Koolhaas’ Casa da Musica, and with Porto’s rapidly developing gastronomic scene there is great food too from traditional northern Portuguese fare to delicious international specialities such as sushi. For those who like a bit of nightlife, there is plenty of that too, be it out on the street or at an arty cafe.
Walk it, tram it, boat it or tuk-tuk it – Porto’s got something for everyone!
The “golden“ river, quintas, port and wine
The spectacular Douro Valley with the world’s oldest demarcated vineyards, a Unesco World Heritage site, is surely one of the main highlights of Northern Portugal.
The formidable Douro, one of the major rivers of the Iberian Peninsula, dominates. It snakes its way from the fascinating city of Porto, port wine lodges at its mouth, up through a gently undulating countryside of vines, cork oak, almond, cherry, quince and olive trees, to the spectacular higher reaches of the Alto Douro, where the immensity of the landscape and the steepness of the vine-clad terraced river banks give a sense of power and at the same time an underlying silence.
From Roman times, men, not machines, have worked this almost impossible terrain to produce premier wines and, since the C17th, port.
The hillsides, dotted with historical whitewashed Quintas, held by the same families, some British, for generations, are seen at their colourful best in the Spring and at harvest time. A journey along the river – by car, boat, train or on foot – brings stunning vistas.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
6 THINGS TO SEE AND DO IN PORTO AND THE DOURO VALLEY
THINGS TO SEE AND DO IN PORTO AND THE DOURO VALLEY - OUT AND ABOUT
OTHER POINTS OF INTEREST IN PORTO AND THE DOURO VALLEY
Things to see and do in Porto and the Douro Valley
The Ribeira District of Porto
Do not miss the fascinating, medieval Ribeira district by the Douro – Porto’s historic centre and Unesco World Heritage site. Stroll along the promenade by the river dominated by the two tiered Dom Luis 1 bridge, explore its tiny cobblestone alleys crammed with little old shops, bars and restaurants, many built into what remains of the old city walls – and look out across to the port wine lodges across the river.
And take a leisurely river cruise on a barco rabelo, going under Porto’s six bridges to get a panoramic view of the entire city. All very atmospheric, but be warned – very touristy too.
Port Wine lodges of Vila Nova de Gaia
Cross the impressive iron arched Dom Luis 1 bridge, built in 1886, from the Ribeira district to the port wine lodges in Vila Nova de Gaia where port has been blended and matured since the C18th century. There are thirty lodges in all, seventeen of which are open to the public for tours (the tourist office there will give you a map and list).
Some are more-or-less museums, some fully working cellars and some just tasting rooms. Familiar names like Graham’s, Taylor’s and Sandeman jump out at you. Sample the tipple and soak in the grandstand view of Porto from the riverside promenade with beautiful “barcos rabelos” –flat bottomed boats which transported the wine in times gone by.
From here take the Funicular “Teleferico de Gaia” to the upper part of Porto town and the Romanesque cathedral, for amazing views over the river and the city.
Porto on foot
Take in the sights of Porto on foot – there are guided walks, but doing it independently is fun too – baroque Torre de Clerigos, the majestic Palacio de la Bolsa, the gothic church of San Francisco, the famous bookshop “Livraria Lello” – an inspiration for J.K. Rowling while writing Harry Potter, the Sao Bento railway station with its immense and beautiful tile panels, the Casa do Infante, birthplace of Henry the Navigator… and so much more.
The Alto Douro
The unbelievably dramatic landscape of the Alto Douro, upriver from Peso Da Regua, with its steep terraced vineyards and whitewashed quintas perched high above the river, is not a 7th Wonder of the World, but would make an easy candidate.
Whether by boat, train, car or on foot, the panorama, is amazing, and a tour of the wine producing villages and the wineries an unforgettable experience. The drive between Peso da Regua and Pinhao was voted the World’s Best Drive in 2015; the route up from Pinhao to Alijo also takes some beating, but is not perhaps for the faint hearted.
Steam train up the Douro
From June to October on Saturdays and Sundays you can take a memorable trip on a historic steam train, built in 1925, from Peso de Regua to Tua and back, stopping at the lovely station of Pinhao with its beautiful tiles.
A unique journey through the magnificent landscape of the Alto Douro, on board entertainment with regional singers and musicians and a glass of port included!
Even the trip on an ordinary train Linha Do Douro (runs from Porto to Pocinho) is one of the most picturesque in Europe, particularly in the upper reaches between Pinhao and Pocinho.
Amarante
Upriver from Porto is the charming old town of Amarante on the River Tamega, hometown of Sao Goncalo, Portugal’s St. Valentine. Most monuments in the town are named after him from the strategically placed arched bridge, a battleground in the Peninsula War where in 1809 local forces drove the French out, to its C15th convent and church where his tomb lies – tradition has it that if anyone aspiring to marriage touches the statue above it, their wish will be granted within a year!
It’s Vinho Verde country, and with its balconied houses, cobblestone lanes and the willow trees lining its riverbanks it is a romantic and dreamy place, great for a picnic – the town can is a good source for locally produced cheeses, smoked sausages, cakes and pastries, not to mention wine – or a peaceful row on the river.
Things to See and Do in Porto and the Douro Valley - Out and About
Porto – Art & Music
Enjoy art at the Museu Nacional Soares dos Reis and Museu de Arte Contemporanea and on a smaller scale the little art galleries in Rua Miguel Bombarda, and all types of music from classical to jazz at Porto’s music mecca, Casa da Musica – concerts every night! Or listen to traditional Fado at Casa de Mariquinhas.
Porto – Afurada & Praia de Estrela
Catch a small ferry across the Douro to the picturesque traditional fishing village of Afurada with its tile bedecked houses and hire a bike, walk or bus it to lovely Praia de Estrela with its soft, golden sand. Feast on hearty fish stew “calderaida” or freshly grilled fish and seafood back in Afurada on your way home.
Boat trips on the River Douro
There are all sorts of river cruises on offer from Porto, Peso da Regua and Pinhao and there is possibly no more relaxing way to see the Douro than to choose this option, but the boats can be crowded and noisy.
If you want a more intimate romantic experience, you can cruise in a “rabelo” boat, departing from Pinhao up towards Tua, or you can hire your own boat there or at Peso da Regua. Another idea is to combine a boat trip with a train ride.
Picnic spots above the Douro
Almost anywhere in the arrestingly beautiful Douro valley is inviting for a picnic, but there are two spots which should not be missed.
The Miradouro de Sao Leonardo da Galafura (off N313-1, north east of Peso da Regua), the highest point of the Douro valley, gives you the most spectacular views of the valley, river and mountains. On a clear day you can see for 30 kilometres in all directions. There is a picnic area and a chapel, but above all, peace and tranquillity.
The Miradouro de Sao Salvador do Mundo (between Pinhao and Foz Coa), on a pointed hill sprinkled with churches and chapels, has a picnic area with stone tables and benches from which you get amazing views of the hills, vineyards and river.
Palacio de Mateus
Think back to the late sixties when dining out at a Trust House Forte restaurant and ordering a bottle of that fizzy pink wine in that funny shaped bottle to impress the wife or girlfriend and you’ve got it – Mateus Rosé. But you probably didn’t know where it really came from. Well now you do!
The magnificent C18th Palacio de Mateus manor house, near Vila Real, depicted on the labels of the famous wine, is open to the public and well worth a visit, with its impressive baroque façade, ornate double stairway, a library containing one of the first editions of Camoes’ “Os Luisadas” and its fantastical gardens with elegant statues and an amazing reflecting pond; it also holds musical events.
Do not miss a tasting at their wine shop of the delicious “Alvarelhao” which in essence is the wine that the estate first produced way back in the 1940s.
Opening hours: 9.00 -13.00 and 14.00 – 19.00.
Parque Natural do Alvao
This delightful, natural park, just 70 square kilometres, north west of Vila Real, with the Rio Olo running through, is home to an amazing variety of flora and fauna and the dramatic waterfall of Fisgas do Ermelo, one of the largest in Europe.
With its rocky highlands and verdant pastures, traditional farming villages, thatched houses and a workshop in the 800-year-old village of Ermelo which continues the ancient art of linen making, it is still relatively unknown.
There are lovely signposted walks to follow, while a recommended drive taking in the agricultural scene is from Lamas do Olo to Ermelo. Take a picnic or lunch at the family-run restaurant in Ermelo.
Other points of interest in Porto and the Douro Valley
Lamego
The handsome, university town of Lamego with its astonishingly dramatic baroque stairway up to the C18th church of Senhora de Remedios lies south of the River Douro.
Climb its 600 steps and then sample their local tipple “raposeira”, a fragant sparkling wine, to recover!
With its fine cathedral and the church of Santa Maria de Almacave (both dating back to C12th) and one of Portugal’s best regional museums, it is more than worth a visit.
Take a pleasant walk down from Lamego to the Capela de Sao Pedro in the hamlet of Balsemao – built in the 6th century by the Visigoths – older than Portugal itself!
A little further afield, discover Portugal’s first Cistercian monastery Sao Jao de Tarouca (now in ruins) and the monastery of Salzedas, built in 1168, at one time among the grandest in the land, in the wooded Barosa valley.
Peso da Regua
Not a glamorous town at first sight, Peso da Regua, the capital of the Douro in the heart of vineyard country, has a scenic and lively riverfront and a quaint old quarter tucked behind. It is the place to join a boat trip or take the train up river to Pinhao and beyond.
But first visit the “Museo do Douro” for a fascinating insight into the region and its wine-making, and enjoy one of the town’s good restaurants. Nearby is one of the oldest wineries “Quinta do Vallado” (1716), not to be missed for a tasting or an elegant lunch.
Pinhao
There is nothing spectacular about the little workaday village of Pinhao, though it’s rather endearing – but there is something very spectacular about its setting in the valley, on one of the loveliest bends of the River Douro, majestic terraced hillsides dotted with quintas, producing the best port in the world and some excellent wines, on all sides.
Small though it is, Pinhao is the centre of this busy wine producing region and a good place to start your tour of the wineries or just to drive or walk in the surrounding countryside.
Its pretty train station is very special, decorated with stunning blue and white tiles “azulejos”, depicting scenes of the vineyards and the vindimia (harvest), more than deserves a visit. From here you can make the fantastic train journey through the vineyards up to Pocinho.
The village itself is a good source for stocking up for a picnic. The excellent butcher’s “Talho Qualifer” sells its own smoked meats and sausages, local cheeses and locally baked bread.
Provesende
In the world’s oldest demarcated wine region, the Alto Douro, producing the legendary Port Wine, the ancient village of Provesende, 600 metres above sea level and high above the River Douro, has a fascinating history.
Over the centuries the village attracted many noble families and was the seat of local government for 20 years in the 17th century. Now ten manor houses, some sadly falling to ruin, an amazingly ornate 18th century baroque church, an old fountain with the archbishop’s crest dating from 1755 and a pillory from 1578 remind us of its former importance.
Surrounded by vineyards and looking down onto yet more vines in terraces snaking round the hillside, Provesende is today a quiet and peaceful place with the freshest of mountain air; it has three bars, one serving food, and a wonderful old bakery where the best of bread is still baked in a traditional oven.
There is a spectacular walk from Provesende, 600 metres down through vineyards to Pinhao. You might want to get a taxi to take you back to your starting point!
Rock art in the Vale de Coa
See the world famous gallery of Palaeolithic rock art at the Parque Arquelogico do Vale de Coa , east of Pinhao beyond Sao Joao da Pesqueira.
Plans to build a dam in the 1990s in this remote and hot region were put to a halt when researchers came across this amazing collection of mysterious rock engravings, the largest in Europe and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Visits must be reserved in advance and only guided tours are permitted. All involve some walking. Opening hours: Tues –Sun: 9.00 – 12.30 pm and 2.00 – 5.30 pm.
Sabrosa and the megalithic Pagan Sanctuary of Panoias
Up above Provesende you’ll find the interesting village of Sabrosa with some fine C18th manor houses andmore importantly, hometown to the great navigator Ferdinand Magellan.
Beyond this, on the N322 going towards Vila Real, you’ll come across the sanctuary of Panoias – a field with enormous carved stones, believed to have been used as altars for human sacrifice, the inscriptions in Latin invoking the ancient god Serapis.
Eat and Drink in Porto and the Douro Valley
Bom Apetite!
Here, as in the rest of Portugal, the cuisine is still refreshingly regional, making best use of local producers, quality ingredients, and following simple but effective recipes based on tradition, to create fresh and appetizing dishes – hearty, tasty and pleasing to the eye. That said, the last few years have seen an emergence of young cooks who with their creativity and imagination have added innovative touches to a cuisine strongly linked to the past.
In the whole region, coastal and inland, there are countless family-run restaurants, some still with their kitchen “on view” so you can enjoy not only what is on your plate but also the preparation of it, from freshly grilled sardines to heart-warming soups. Mostly at these establishments “prato do dia” (dish of the day) or “menu turistica ementa” (menu of the day) will be offered at lunchtime when dining rooms fill with workers and local businessmen alike.
They certainly do not skimp on quantity here, but it is perfectly acceptable to order a half portion “meia dose” or share a whole portion “uma dose” between two.
Start with a bowl of “caldo verde” (kale, potato and onion soup) or whet your appetite with the little dishes of olives, cheese, “presunto” (cured ham), “pasteis de bacalhau” (codfish croquettes), prawns…which nearly always appear on your table, even if not ordered. (They will appear on the bill at the end, but you can turn them away).
Then prepare for the freshest of Atlantic fish and seafood, juicy Barrosa steaks (from locally reared cattle), black pork “porco preto” from the Alentejo, kid roasted in wood fired ovens, chicken grilled to perfection over coals, bacalhau (salt cod) cooked in as many ways as there are days in the year, rich pork casseroles… Main courses are usually accompanied by potatoes and rice and either a salad or cooked vegetables.
Porto has its specialities which shouldn’t be missed – “Tripas a modo do Porto” (tripe cooked with beans, pigs trotters and offal), “Francesinhas” (steak, sausage and cheese sandwich in a beer flavoured sauce) “Caldeirada do peixe” (fish and potato stew) and “Ameijoas a Bulhao Pato” (a clam and coriander dish). In the Douro valley it is well worth sampling “ensopado de javili” (wild boar stew), “perdiz no espeto” (partridge on a skewer), “arroz a cabidela” (rice with poultry or rabbit) “feijoda a trasmontana” (a hearty bean and pork stew) and any river fish that may be on offer.
Puddings, mostly egg and milk based, are simple, but delicious – “leite crème” (crème brulee), “pudim flan” (crème caramel), “arroz doce” (rice pudding) “pasteis de nata” (custard tarts) and “doces conventuais” (little eggy, almondy cakelets). For bread fans, the Douro, and Portugal in general, should be high on your list – at many restaurants you will be given a basket with a mixture of locally made breads – try “broa” – a type of corn bread – very more-ish.
As an aperitif, you might like to follow the local custom and try a glass of port – some of the red ports are much lighter than you find in England and the dry white ports are great to tease your appetite. Also, in the Douro you might be offered a glass of moscatel from the little village of Favaios.
Should hunger strike between meals some bars offer “petiscos” (tempting little savoury snacks) and don’t miss out on a morning coffee (usually excellent) and a tempting cake or pastry at one of the many popular cafeterias.
Eating times: The Portuguese tend to eat early. Most restaurants start serving at noon and go on till 3.00 pm. In the evenings they usually open at 7.00 pm and stop serving at 11.
Port and wines from the Douro
The discovery of Port, a wine fortified with brandy, initially for shipping purposes, can possibly be credited to C17th British merchants: Britain had fallen out with France, and they were on the lookout for another source of supply for British drinking needs. The highly productive Douro valley was there and it didn’t take long before they went into business.
The port wine lodges with their striking English names in Vila Nova de Gaia and the many wineries in the Douro valley are evidence to this; it is here that you soon learn to tell the difference between a tawny port to a late bottled vintage.
The Douro also produces many excellent table wines, both white and red; there’s also a muscatel from Favaios and a fragrant sparkling wine from Lamego. Doing a tour of the Douro wine villages and wineries is a must for wine lovers.
Frequently Asked Questions about Things to See and Do in Porto and the Douro Valley
Getting there
Fly directly to Oporto / Porto and hire a car – the best options are:
- From London Gatwick: TAP Portugal or Easyjet
- From London Stansted: Ryanair
- From Liverpool: Ryanair
- From Manchester: Easyjet, TAP or Ryanair
- From Birmingham: Ryanair
- From Luton: Easyjet
- From Bristol: Easyjet
- From Dublin: Ryanair and TAP
PLEASE NOTE some flights are seasonal.
NB: Flights are not included
Alternatively you could fly to Lisbon (3 hours drive) or Santiago de Compostela in Spain (2hrs 30mins drive). Ask us about these.
Ferry: If you wish to bring your own car, classic car or motorbike, we can include the ferry crossings as part of the package – please take a look at our PO7 The Porto Run or ask for advice.
Getting around
As part of your package we will include a hire car. Normally we include a 4 door economy class car but please let us know if you would like something different.
