The Best Things to See and Do in Asturias - the Expert Guide
At Caminos by Casas Cantabricas, we have spent over 40 years designing tailor-made, self-drive touring itineraries in northern Spain.
To get a real feel for Asturias’ extraordinary contrast of rugged Atlantic coastline and the limestone peaks of the Picos de Europa, as well as its historic cities, prehistoric caves, cider houses and Jurassic fossil sites, you need to plan your time carefully.
One of Asturias’ great attractions is the proximity of its landscapes. The mountains rise remarkably close to the sea, so a journey here can move quickly from high passes and glacial lakes to fishing villages, unspoilt sandy beaches and elegant historic cities. Add in the region’s deep-rooted gastronomy and cider culture, and Asturias has a character all of its own within Northern Spain.
If this is your first visit to Asturias as part of a wider Northern Spain itinerary, a 3 to 4 night stay will give you a taste of one area, perhaps combining the eastern coast around Ribadesella with the Picos de Europa around Cangas de Onís, or slowing things down in the fishing ports and more rural landscapes of the western coast and highlands around Luarca. Both regions also offer access to the central cities of Oviedo and Gijón.
In our opinion, Asturias easily deserves several days of exploration in its own right, and we often include two stops here in our Northern Spain road trips. To do it full justice, our Discover Asturias tour is a full-week itinerary, allowing you to explore its coast, mountains, cities, prehistoric heritage and local gastronomy at a more rewarding pace.
Below, I have mapped out my own definitive Asturias highlights, complete with local logistics, timing tips, insider knowledge, and the cultural and gastronomic nuances you need to plan your journey.
About the author
Andy is a director of Caminos by Casas Cantabricas, and has been travelling and living in northern Spain for over 30 years, returning time and time again to the 'Natural Paradise' of Asturias – here he shares his personal favourites and expert, insider tips.
"Asturias is a region I’ve come to know and love through many years of family holidays and travels with friends, leaving me with countless cherished moments: splashing with the kids on its sandy beaches, marvelling at dinosaur footprints set right into the rock by the sea, cycling and hiking along mountain paths and coastal trails, and ending the day with my favourite fabes con almejas and a glass of cider. What stays with me most though is the warmth of the welcome, the kind of local hospitality that makes Asturias feel so easy to return to."
Asturias at a Glance
- Best for: walking, gastronomy, scenic drives, combining high mountain scenery with sea, fishing ports, cider
- Ideal stay: 3 to 7 nights
- Main gateways: Oviedo (Asturias) and Santander
- Highlights: Picos de Europa, Cares Gorge, Jurassic Coast, Oviedo, pre-Romanesque architecture
- Best time to visit: May to October
- Combines well with: Cantabria, Galicia, Burgos, León
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Asturias’ Cities: Oviedo, Avilés, Gijón and Pre-Romanesque Heritage
Our Guide to the Asturias Mountains: Cares Gorge, Covadonga Lakes and Wild Western Highlands
- Picos de Europa - the Asturian Valleys
- Cangas de Onis - gateway to the Picos de Europa
- Arriondas - mountain activities
- Cares Route - the 'Divine Gorge'
- Covadonga Lakes - Asturias' spiritual heart
- Desfiladero de los Beyos - scenic mountain drive
- Sierra del Sueve - bewteen the Picos and the sea
- Asturias Western Highlands - the Wild West
- Somiedo Nature Park - UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in western Asturias
- Comarca Vaqueira - Asturias' own Cowboy Country
Exploring the Asturias Coast: East to West - Llanes, Lastres, Cudillero and Beyond
Asturias Beaches - a Few of Our Favourites
- Playa Isla - our little secret
- Playa La Griega - dinosaur footprints by the sand
- Playa Cuevas del Mar - remarkable rock formations
- Playa de Barro - a family favourite
- Playa La Franca - the most easterly beach, and one of the best
- Playa la Vega - Wild surf and hippy-chic
- Playa del Silencio - legendary northern beauty
- Playa de Otur - unspoilt surfers' beach
Asturias’ Cities : Oviedo, Avilés, Gijón plus Pre-Romanesque Heritage
While Asturias is best known for its dramatic mountains, wild coastline and green rural landscapes, its three main cities, Oviedo, Gijón and Avilés, deserve a place on any northern Spain itinerary. Set in a compact triangle, the 'central corridor' at the heart of the Principality of Asturias, they are easy to visit as day trips from almost anywhere in the region, yet each also make an excellent base for travellers who enjoy city comforts alongside easy access to nature.
Often overlooked in favour of Asturias’ beaches, fishing villages and hiking trails, Oviedo, Gijón and Avilés offer an authentic experience of northern Spanish life. We've enjoyed many visits over the years and keep going back for the elegant old quarters, lively cider houses, Romanesque churches, maritime history, contemporary culture and some of the best gastronomy in the country.
Up and coming Gijón also has a trump card in Playa de San Lorenzo, a sweeping city beach that can hold its own against the likes of San Sebastián or Santander. With direct flights Asturias Airport providing convenient access to the central Asturian corridor, these cities are also a practical gateway for a wider tour of northern Spain.
Oviedo
Asturias' historic capital
It is extraordinary to think that Oviedo was once the capital of Christian Spain, and that tiny Asturias remained the only part of the Iberian Peninsula never fully conquered by Moorish rule.
That proud legacy is still visible today in some of Spain’s finest pre-Romanesque churches, including nearby Santa María del Naranco, dating from the 8th and 9th centuries, as well as in Oviedo’s elegant old town, medieval arcades and magnificent Gothic cathedral. The city has gained fame more recently through Fernando Alonso, Oviedo’s Formula One hero, and its use in films such as Woody Allen’s Vicky Cristina Barcelona, but despite this, and its remarkable history, Oviedo remains largely untouched by mass tourism and still feels authentic and refreshingly local. Its cobbled streets are filled with independent shops, traditional cafés, lively markets and excellent restaurants serving classic Asturian cuisine.
Foodie tip: For the best cider-house atmosphere, head to the Gascona area, known as Oviedo’s cider boulevard, where traditional sidrerías pour Asturian cider in theatrical style and serve regional favourites such as fabada, cachopo and local cheeses.
Motorsports fans: Visit the Museo y Circuito de Fernando Alonso which features 400 pieces from his glittering career as well as indoor and outdoor competition-level karting circuits. The indoor track is open all year round and open to all drivers but you do need to book the circuit at least one day ahead.
Gijón
Up-and-coming city by the sea
Gijón, Asturias’ largest city, has long been overlooked by tourists, which for us is part of its charm. For travellers looking for an authentic side of northern Spain, it offers a lively mix of working port, historic old town and Atlantic beach life.
To the west, Gijón’s industrial port and marina reflect its maritime heritage. To the east, past the headland of Cimadevilla, you'll find the old fishermen’s quarter, a collection of elegant Modernista architecture and the enormous golden crescent of Playa de San Lorenzo, one of northern Spain’s great urban beaches.
To get a feel for the city, follow the Ruta Modernista, visit the Roman baths behind Plaza Mayor, then walk up to Cimadevilla, where Eduardo Chillida’s Elogio del Horizonte looks out over the Atlantic.
On rainy days, families can visit the Aquarium of Gijón near Playa de Poniente, or try Talasoponiente, a seawater spa and thalassotherapy centre with children’s facilities.
Avilés
Discover its hidden charms
Don’t be put off by the drive past or into the city. At its centre, Avilés has a lovely historic old town that is well worth a visit, and the ultra-modern Niemeyer Centre just across the river provides an almost shocking contrast.
Overlooked by international tourism Avilés makes a superb choice for those wishing to explore the Asturian west coast and central corridor from a central base where they can wander out to shops, bars and restaurants - and it's just 15 minutes from the airport!
Pre-Romanesque Churches
Ancient architecture in the cradle of Christian Spain
With examples dating back to the 8th century, when Asturias was the last Christian stronghold on the Iberian Peninsula, the region is home to Spain’s finest collection of pre-Romanesque architecture.
The Asturian pre-Romanesque style developed from Visigothic traditions after the Goths entered Spain in the 5th century. Some of the best examples include Santa María del Naranco, set on the hillside above Oviedo; Santianes de Pravia, often cited as the oldest Asturian church, near the former royal capital of Pravia; and Santiago de Gobiendes, close to Colunga and the beautiful Playa de La Isla.
Our advice: For all their architectural importance, these churches can feel quite austere. Santa María del Naranco is the exception: originally built as a royal palace and banqueting hall, it is unusually elegant and beautifully proportioned. Santiago de Gobiendes is also well worth the detour, not only for the church itself but for its setting in a quiet farming village between the coast and the dramatic Sierra del Sueve.
Dinosaur Coast and Jurassic Museum
Prehistoric footprints on the beach...
Come and explore the exciting Dinosaur Coast between Ribadesella and Villaviciosa, tracking down giant dinosaur footprints along the way and visiting the impressive Jurassic Museum at Colunga.
The Jurassic Museum, shaped like a dinosaur footprint, explains the period from 250 million years ago to 65 million years BC, including the Jurassic period when dinosaurs roamed the Earth.
It contains an amazing collection of fossil specimens and vertebrate remains and is a visit that will delight all ages.
Our Guide to the Asturias Mountains: Picos de Europa, Cares Gorge, Covadonga Lakes and Wild Highland Valleys
Think of Asturias and you think of mountains. For many travellers, and indeed for many Spaniards, the region is almost synonymous with the Picos de Europa, home to some of the National Park’s most iconic landscapes, including the Cares Gorge and the Lakes of Covadonga. These are the most famous sights, and with good reason, but they are only the beginning. Beyond ‘the Picos’, Asturias opens into a chain of lesser-known mountain landscapes: the deep valleys and beech forests of Ponga, the quiet ridges of Redes Natural Park and, our favourite, the Sierra del Sueve. West of Oviedo, the wild, sparsely populated uplands of Somiedo and the ancient woodland of Muniellos are among Spain’s most remote wildernesses.
What makes the mountains of Asturias so special to us is the way they combine dramatic scenery and remarkable variety with easy access. Within a short journey, you can move from high limestone peaks and glacial lakes to bear country, forest trails, traditional stone villages and family-run restaurants serving hearty mountain cooking. Never far from the coast, and within easy reach of Asturias Airport or the Santander ferry port, they combine naturally with Cantabria, Galicia or Asturias’ own rugged shoreline. For this reason, these mountains are an essential part of many of our northern Spain itineraries.
Picos de Europa National Park
The Asturian Valleys
The Picos de Europa National Park forms part of the Cordillera Cantábrica, the mountain range that runs along Spain’s northwest coast. One of Spain’s great mountain landscapes, the Picos are made up of dramatic limestone massifs, deep gorges, high pastures and remote mountain villages. Straddling the borders of Asturias, Cantabria and León, the park offers all kinds of mountain adventures, with peaks rising to over 2,600m within sight of the Atlantic coast.
The Asturian side of the Picos is the closest to the coast and the most historic. The park began here in 1918 as the Montaña de Covadonga National Park, one of Spain’s first national parks, centred on the sacred landscape around Covadonga. The area is closely tied to the story of the early Christian kingdom of Asturias and the legendary Battle of Covadonga, traditionally dated to 722 and often regarded as the beginning of the Reconquista, giving these mountains a powerful place in Spanish history.
Centred around Cangas de Onís, Arriondas and Arenas de Cabrales, the Asturian side offers some of the park’s most iconic experiences: making a pilgrimage to the Lakes and Sanctuary of Covadonga, hiking the Cares Gorge, canoeing down the River Sella, and exploring remote mountain villages such as Bulnes, Sotres and Tielve. It is a landscape of green valleys, sheer limestone walls, grazing cattle, shepherding traditions and superb local food, especially Gamoneu and Cabrales cheese.
Visiting the Picos - Asturias vs Cantabria
It's quite a long drive from one side of the Picos to the other so, unless you have time to visit both, you may be forced to chose.
The Asturian side is best for the iconic Picos experiences and for combining mountain days with the coast or the historic capital, Oviedo. The Cantabrian side has a different character, with the cable car at Fuente Dé, medieval Potes, Santo Toribio de Liébana and, in May and June, often the better show of wildflowers.
Cangas de Onis
Gateway to the Asturian Picos
Cangas de Onís, once the first court of the Asturian kings and the first capital of reconquered Spain, boasts a beautiful medieval stone bridge at the entrance to the town.
It is a busy and popular place, especially on Sundays when the market is held. From here you can visit nearby Covadonga in the foothills of the Picos de Europa and the famous shrine to the Virgin of Covadonga, affectionately known as La Santina, who is said to have aided the Asturians in their struggle against the Moors.
From Cangas de Onís you can also head south through the magnificent Desfiladero de Beyos gorge, which leads to the southern side of the Picos de Europa.
Insider tip for nature lovers: Visitors Centre - Las Montañas del Quebrantahuesos
A fascinating permanent exhibition dedicated to the Bearded Vulture or Lammergeyer (Quebrantahuesos), a species that disappeared from the Picos de Europa more than sixty years ago but has since been successfully reintroduced to the area by the Foundation for the Conservation of the Bearded Vulture. There is a large model with life-size recreations of more than thirty species of fauna and flora from the Picos in Asturias, along with various interactive panels and biological samples.
Arriondas
Mountain activities galore
Arriondas, where you'll often finfd more canoes than people, is the place to start the descent of the Río Sella and, along with nearby Cangas de Onís, serves as the gateway to the Asturian side of the Picos de Europa as well as the Sierra de Sueve.
It is a good base for arranging all kinds of mountain activities. Lively in summer, the town offers plenty of shops, bars and restaurants.
The Big Day - but maybe not for everyone: On the first Saturday after 2 August, the Festival of the International Descent of the Río Sella is held. In recent years this has become quite raucous and is best avoided unless you are in a serious party mood, as traffic is also difficult throughout the surrounding area on that day.
Don't miss: The Cider Museum at Nava is probably the most interactive of all the museums in Asturias.
Its main aim is to encourage visitors to take part in every process related to the world of cider. Learn how it's made and, more importantly, how to pour it like a native!
Young children can play a game of skittles in a virtual skittle alley and try their hand at an electronic bagpipe.
The Cares Gorge
The 'Divine Gorge'
One of northern Spain’s most famous mountain routes, and rightly so, the Ruta del Cares follows the Río Cares from Poncebos, the most popular starting point, to Caín through spectacular mountain scenery.
As the path follows a trail originally carved out for the canalisation of water, it is generally quite flat and there is no danger of getting lost.
The route covers 12 km and can be busy in summer, so be sure to take water, a hat and sunscreen, as there are no fountains along the way.
Covadonga Lakes
Asturias' spiritual heart
At the very heart of the Picos de Europa National Park, 1,134 metres above sea level, lie the two glacial lakes of Enol and Ercina, known as the Lagos de Covadonga due to their proximity to the basilica and shrine dedicated to the Virgin of the same name.
She is said to have inspired the first significant Christian victory over the Moors on this very site in 722.
The lakes are also famous for featuring in the Vuelta de España cycle race, one of its toughest climbs, won by the Scot Robert Millar in 1984.
Desfiladero de lo Beyos
One of Spain’s great mountain drives
Linking Cangas de Onís in Asturias with Oseja de Sajambre in León, the Desfiladero de los Beyos is one of the most spectacular drives anywhere in Spain.
What makes the route special
The road follows the course of the River Sella between the Picos de Europa and Ponga Natural Park, with vertiginous limestone mountains rising on either side. It is a favourite with cyclists, motorcyclists and classic car enthusiasts.
Caminos insider tip
If you want to get truly off the beaten track, try the Fonda de Ponga: authentic, home-cooked Asturian food with views few tourists get to enjoy.
Sierra del Sueve
Between the Picos and the sea
Sitting just outside the Picos de Europa, between the park and the coast at Lastres, the Sierra del Sueve is often overlooked, even by Spaniards, yet it remains a firm favourite with the Caminos team.
Drive up to the Mirador del Fito, the mountain pass connecting Colunga with Arriondas, and you’ll be rewarded with a unique panoramic view that takes in both the Atlantic coast and the Picos de Europa. For the more energetic, leave the car at the mirador and hike up to Pico Pienzu, which, at over 1,100m, commands magnificent views as far as Santander and Avilés on a clear day.
The valleys on either side of the Sierra del Sueve have a special magic, feeling intensely remote while still being perfectly placed for exploring the whole region. For many years, they have been one of our favourite recommendations for visitors to this fascinating corner of northern Spain.
We tend to favour small, characterful hotels in the valleys around the Sierra del Sueve, close enough for the coast, Oviedo and the Picos, but peaceful enough to feel properly tucked away. In our Asturias itineraries, this might mean a delightful Indiano-style country house hotel on the coastal side or a recently opened gastro-hotel near Arriondas, though the right choice depends very much on the route, season and style of trip.
A good excursion: Museo de La Sidra in Nava
Probably the most interactive of all the museums in Asturias. Its main aim is to encourage visitors to take part in every process related to the world of cider. Learn how it's made and, more importantly, how to pour it like a native!
Asturias Western Highlands
The Wild West
Less well-known than the Picos de Europa, the western highlands of Asturias reveal another side of the region: quieter and wilder where traditional ways of mountain life are still preserved.
The Somiedo Natural Park, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and one of Asturias’ great wild landscapes, is the main attraction for most visitors here but further west and south, around Cangas del Narcea, the landscape becomes even more remote. Here you find the untouched oak forest of Muniellos, Spain's largest oak forest and Asturias at its most primordial, as well as the little-known yet excellent wines of Cangas, grown on steep mountain vineyards in a region better known for cider than wine. This is Asturias at its most unexpected: rugged, green, traditional and quietly distinctive.
The western highlands also carry the memory of Asturias’ industrial past. To the south of Oviedo, the Cuencas Mineras tell the story of the mining valleys that shaped so much of modern Asturias, while nearby routes such as the Senda del Oso have transformed old railway lines into some of the region’s most enjoyable walking and cycling trails.
This part of Asturias is ideal for those who want to go beyond the obvious highlights. It is less polished than the classic tourist routes, but that is precisely its charm.
Less well-known than the Picos de Europa, the western highlands of Asturias reveal another side of the region: quieter and wilder where traditional ways of mountain life are still preserved.
The Somiedo Natural Park, one of Asturias’ great wild landscapes and a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve is the main attraction for most visitors here but further west and south, around Cangas del Narcea, the landscape becomes even more remote. Here you find the untouched oak forest of Muniellos, Asturias at its most primordial, as well as the little-known yet excellent wines of Cangas, grown on steep mountain vineyards in a region better known for cider than wine. This is Asturias at its most unexpected: rugged, green, traditional and quietly distinctive.
The western highlands also carry the memory of Asturias’ industrial past. To the south of Oviedo, the Cuencas Mineras tell the story of the mining valleys that shaped so much of modern Asturias, while nearby routes such as the Senda del Oso have transformed old railway lines into some of the region’s most enjoyable walking and cycling trails.
This part of Asturias is ideal for those who want to go beyond the obvious highlights. It is less polished than the classic tourist routes, but that is precisely its charm.
Fascinating fact: In the valleys around Cangas del Narcea you'll find most restaurants offer gluten-free options. This is due to the initiative Cangas Sin Gluten founded due to the unusually high concentration of coeliac sufferers in these parts. Though not proven there's a school of thought that this derives from the valleys' Celtic ancestry. Maybe there's something in it - they're not shy of a bagpipe in these parts either!
Visit Muniellos: To say Muniellos is a pristine forest is u gross understatement. The forest is enclosed and only 20 visitors a day are allowed in. Should you be interested in visiting you need to book well in advance - here's the complete guide to Muniellos Biosphere Reserve
Somiedo Natural Park
UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in western Asturias
Believe it or not, brown bears can still be seen in Somiedo Natural Park, or more often their tracks and signs, in one of the most beautiful and unspoilt corners of Asturias. Set inland from Belmonte de Miranda in western Asturias, Somiedo is made up of five main valleys and has a very different feel from the busier Picos de Europa.
The area is closely associated with the Vaqueiros de Alzada, transhumant cattle herders with their own distinctive culture, traditions and folklore. Their presence can still be felt in the landscape, which is dotted with teitos, traditional stone cottages with broom-thatched roofs once used by shepherds and livestock.
A paradise for nature lovers, Somiedo Natural Park is home to rare botanical species as well as chamois, capercaillie and the Cantabrian brown bear. Wild, quiet and wonderfully untouched, it is a superb area for walkers and for anyone who wants to venture a little further in search of another Asturias.
For those looking to venture beyond the better-known mountain areas, Somiedo offers a glimpse of another world: quieter, wilder and deeply Asturian. Pola de Somiedo is the best place to begin a visit to the park.
Comarca Vaqueira
Asturias' own Cowboy Country
La Comarca Vaqueira - literally ‘Cowboy Country’ the region inland from Cudillero and Luarca is named after the cowherds who, until recent times, would move the cattle seasonally up and down these valleys.
Shunned by the locals the cowboys were thought to be of a different ethnic origin, though it is more likely that they just had different clothing and dialect. During the herding they would live with the cattle or in stone ‘Brañas’ which are still to be seen throughout this intensely rural region.
Living history: Peek inside many of the village churches and you’ll find a line on the floor near the back, beyond which the Vaqueiros were not allowed to pass.
Exploring the Asturias Coast: East to west - Llanes, Lastres, Cudillero and Beyond
Asturias’ coast is one of the great pleasures of northern Spain: a perfect mix of fishing villages, sea cliffs, estuaries, lighthouses, coastal paths and small harbours where seafood, cider and maritime tradition are part of everyday life. It is easy to get around but this is a coastline made for slow exploration with each stretch revealing something new, from elegant seaside towns and colourful ports to wild headlands, prehistoric sites and tranquil historic towns and valleys just a short drive from the sea.
The eastern coast is the more dramatic and varied, and places such as Llanes, Ribadesella, Lastres, and Colombres, just inland, combine coastal scenery with history, architecture and excellent food. Around Colunga, Asturias’ Jurassic Coast has a special interest from our point of view, with the Jurassic Museum and fossil record differentiating it from other stops in northern Spain.
Further west, beyond the coastal cities of Gijón and Avilés, Asturias becomes quieter and more rural - a restful place where you can relax and really feel like you're on holiday. The colourful ports of Cudillero, Luarca and Puerto de Vega quickly give way to a lesser-known hinterland of historic towns such as Malleza, Salas and Pravia, before rising into the Comarca Vaqueira and the vast expanse of green mountains that stretch south towards León.
Dinosaur Coast and Jurassic Museum
Prehistoric footprints on the beach...
The stretch of coast between Ribadesella and Villaviciosa is one of the best places in Spain to see dinosaur footprints in their original setting. Along the cliffs and beaches, fossilised tracks from the Jurassic period can still be seen in the rock, some dating back around 150 million years, adding a fascinating extra layer of interest to this already beautiful coastline.
The Jurassic Museum, shaped like a dinosaur footprint, has an amazing collection of fossil specimens, vertebrate remains and exhibits which explain the period from 250 million years ago to 65 million years BC, including the Jurassic period when dinosaurs roamed the Earth.
Though certainly designed to engage the youngsters the museum is thoroughly scientific in its approach and will delight all ages.
Lastres
North Spain's answer to Cornwall?
Set below the Sierra del Sueve, rising to over 1100 metres, Lastres is one of Asturias’ most attractive fishing villages. Its steep streets drop sharply to a still-active harbour, giving the town a wonderfully authentic feel.
Chosen as the setting for Spain’s version of Doc Martin, Lastres has a hint of Cornwall in its cliffs and harbour, but its colonial houses, palm trees and superb seafood are unmistakably Asturian.
The village has a small beach, with La Griega and La Isla nearby. Just outside town, the MUJA Jurassic Museum makes a good family visit and links well with the dinosaur footprints found along this stretch of coast.
Our top tip is to head up to the Mirador de San Roque, above the town. From here, Lastres is perfectly framed by the unspoilt coastline, the green slopes of the Sierra del Sueve and, on clear days, the Picos de Europa in the distance. It is one of the best views of northern Spain, and, as so often in Asturias, there is a small bar nearby for a well-earned sundowner.
Ribadesella
Elegant resort with prehistoric caves
At the mouth of the Río Sella, which flows directly from the Picos de Europa and is very popular for canoeing, Ribadesella is a lively seaside town with lovely sheltered beaches and fine mountain views inland.
Good for shopping or simply mooching about, the town is also home to the Tito Bustillo caves, one of the most important examples of prehistoric cave painting, though they can be somewhat difficult to visit - book ahead!
The town is full of good bars and eateries, to work up an appetite - and get a splendid photo of the town with its estuary and beaches and the mountains behind - we recommend taking the walk up to the Ermita de la Guia, a small chapel set on the headland, which forms the eastern side of the estuary.
Llanes
A popular spot
Llanes sits on the craggy coastline at the eastern end of the Asturian Costa Verde, nestled beneath the mountains of the Sierra de Cuera.
A traditional fishing town, with some areas virtually unchanged since medieval times but now a popular resort for Spanish tourists which can be very lively in summer.
Well placed for exploring Asturias, the Picos de Europa and western Cantabria, and with three beaches within the town itself, its popularity is easily understood.
Whilst still delighful out of season, we tend to avoid Llanes in the summer months as it can be impossible to park or find a table in a restaurant.
Villaviciosa
Heart of Asturias' Cider Country
At the very heart of Asturias’s “Cider Country”, Villaviciosa is these days a fairly quiet market town.
There are several attractive churches to visit, but the main draw is its traditional Asturian cider houses, which come to life in October when the town hosts the annual Fiesta de la Manzana.
Nearby is the popular beach of Rodiles, part of the Villaviciosa Nature Reserve with vast expanse of golden sand with cliffs at one end. Access can be tricky in summer months as the only way in is via a small country lane running though the nature reserve. There's a very nice municipal golf course beside the river estuary but, as with anywhere in Spain, you'll need to show your handicap card to play.
Tazones - the quintessential fishing village - just west of the Villaviciosa estuary, Tazones is a pretty little fishing town nestled in a cove. In spite of being hidden away, in recent years we've found it a little touristy (by north Spain standards), a victim of its own success, but it still offers a fine selection of eateries and is well worth a visit for lunch outside peak times.
Colombres
Headquarters for the 'Casonas de Indianos'
Right next to the Cantabrian border, just across the bridge from Unquera, Colombres is a pretty Asturian village known for its impressive Indianos architecture. These grand villas were built by Asturians who made their fortunes in Latin America and returned home loaded with riches as well as new ideas and architectural tastes.
At the centre of the village is the Quinta Guadalupe, a striking Casona de Indianos that now houses the Indianos Archive and Emigration Museum, telling the story of Asturias’ historic links with Cuba, Mexico and other parts of Latin America.
Colombres also has a handful of small shops and a pleasant Thursday morning market, giving it a gentle local feel rather than a resort atmosphere. Nearby, the Cueva del Pindal is one of eastern Asturias’ most important prehistoric sites, while Playa de La Franca offers a beautiful sandy beach just a short drive away.
Cudillero
Picture-postcard fishing village
Cudillero is the classic Asturian fishing village: colourful houses huddled around a sheltered cove, steep lanes climbing maze-like up the hillside, and seafood restaurants gathered around the water’s edge. It is popular with visitors, especially in summer, but Cudillero remains an active fishing port and is still well worth the detour.
To stretch your legs, follow the narrow lanes up to one of the viewpoints above the village. Finding the way is part of the fun, and the reward is a wonderful view over the harbour, rooftops and Atlantic coast.
A little-known highlight nearby is the Conjunto Palaciego de los Selgas, also known as the Asturian Versailles, in El Pito, just outside Cudillero. Built at the end of the 19th century by the Selgas brothers, the estate includes a palace, gardens, church, school and art collections with works associated with artists such as Goya and El Greco.
The gardens combine French, Italian and English styles, while the church contains important early medieval pieces brought from Santianes de Pravia, one of Asturias’ oldest pre-Romanesque sites. It is an unexpected cultural treasure and one of the best hidden visits on this part of the Asturian coast.
Luarca
A popular spot
Once an important whaling port, Luarca is known as 'La Villa Blanca de la Costa Verde', the White Town of the Green Coast. It is one of the most genuine fishing towns in Asturias, less polished than some of the region’s better-known villages, but full of authentic charm.
Brightly painted fishing boats still work from the sheltered harbour, contrasting beautifully with the dark slate roofs typical of western Asturias. For a small town, Luarca is surprisingly labyrinthine, with narrow streets, bridges and viewpoints that make it a pleasure to explore on foot.
Food lovers are well served here. The harbour area has plenty of seafood restaurants, and the covered fish market, or lonja, is well worth seeking out. Decorated with tiled murals showing Luarca’s fishing history, it is especially photogenic when the day’s catch is being auctioned.
Also worth a visit is the Giant Squid Museum, a small but fascinating museum dedicated to the giant squid, the real-life creatures that helped inspire legends of the Kraken. It holds what Asturias’ official tourism body describes as the world’s largest collection of giant squid, making it one of Luarca’s most unusual attractions.
Puerto de Vega
Small but perfectly formed
Small, picturesque and full of maritime character, Puerto de Vega has everything we look for in an Asturian fishing village: a tiny lonja, a traditional cofradía de pescadores, narrow cobbled streets and a handful of excellent restaurants by the quay.
We often include a stop here in our northern Spain itineraries, our guests staying at our favourite boutique seafront hotel nearby. From the village, a clifftop walking trail runs past the hotel towards Playa de Frexulfe and beyond, making it easy to combine a gentle coastal walk with lunch by the harbour.
Puerto de Vega was once shaped by whaling, but today tuna is one of the main local catches. For seafood and regional Asturian dishes, try Restaurante La Marina by the harbour, highly recommended.
Pravia and Salas
History in the hinterland
Pravia was home to the kings of Asturias in the 8th century, when the region was the last Christian stronghold on the Iberian Peninsula. Today it is a pleasant provincial town with an authentic local atmosphere and a good Thursday market.
Nearby, the Church of Santianes de Pravia dates from the reign of King Silo in the 8th century and is one of the earliest examples of Asturian pre-Romanesque architecture. There is also a small museum dedicated to this important early medieval style.
Further inland, Salas, also known as San Martín de Salas, sits in the heart of the Comarca Vaqueira, sometimes described as Asturias’ cowboy country. The village has an evocative atmosphere, especially on Tuesdays, when the weekly market brings it to life. Its medieval castle tower houses a small museum of Asturian pre-Romanesque art.
Pravia and Salas work well as part of a scenic driving route through western Asturias. Combine them with Malleza and Somao, both known for their elegant Casas de Indianos, and don't miss the chance to stop at the local miradores (view points) for sweeping, panoramic views towards the Asturian coast.
Malleza
The 'Little Havana'
Twenty kilometres inland Malleza, tucked away in the beautiful hills between Pravia and Salas is known as the Little Havana.
Here you will find several ‘Casas de los Indianos’ colourful buildings in a colonial style built by those returning with fortunes made in Latin America and the Caribbean. The grand “Palacio de Los Malleza”, built in the 16th century, now a fine hotel, owned by the Osborne-Ybarra family, famous for their sherry, stands at the entrance to the village.
The popular “Al Son del Indiano” restaurant in the village square by the church, serves imaginative, interesting dishes - good for a special treat!
There is a small “fábrica de chorizos” – a family run factory producing local pork products and at nearby Arquera there is a dairy where cheese is made and a very good family run restaurant – “Casa Manolo”.
Coaña
Iron Age Hillfort near the Asturias Coast
Just west of Navia, the Castro de Coaña is one of the most important archaeological sites in Asturias and one of the best places to understand the region’s ancient castro culture.
This fortified hilltop settlement was occupied before the Romans arrived, with evidence of use from at least the Iron Age. Later, under Roman rule, the area became closely linked to gold mining and trade along the Navia estuary.
The site is divided into two main areas: the acropolis, a fortified upper enclosure, and a lower settlement where more than 80 circular stone huts can still be seen. There is also a small interpretation centre, which helps explain daily life in the castro, its defensive layout and the changes brought by Roman influence.
For anyone interested in Asturias beyond the coast, Coaña is an easy and interesting stop: atmospheric, easy to combine with the fishing ports of Navia or Puerto de Vega, and one of the clearest windows into pre-Roman northern Spain.
Asturias Beaches - a Few of Our Favourites
As with the rest of the northern Spain coast, the beaches of Asturias are wonderfully varied, but all share an unspoilt natural beauty, a gentle climate and a distinctive Atlantic character. From cliff-backed coves and golden sandy crescents to sheltered town beaches and wild surf spots, Asturias offers a remarkable range of coastal landscapes within a relatively short stretch of shoreline.
The character of the coast changes as you travel from west to east. In western Asturias, beaches mostly give way to rolling green hills, dotted with cows and quiet fishing villages. Further east, the Sierra del Sueve and Sierra del Cuera rise sharply behind the coast, giving beaches such as La Franca, La Isla and Las Cuevas a dramatic mountain backdrop. Around Colunga, Asturias’ Jurassic Coast adds another layer of interest, fossilised dinosaur footprints found right by the sand at Playa Griega, one of our longstanding favourites. Together, these landscapes make the beaches of Asturias ideal not only for swimming, sunbathing and surfing, but also for walking, photography and exploring one of the most distinctive coastlines in the whole of Spain.
Playa Isla
Shh - don't tell everyone...
Playa de La Isla, near Colunga and Lastres, has long been one of our favourite beaches in Asturias. It has everything we look for in a northern Spanish beach, yet somehow never gets overcrowded.
The beach is a mix of soft sand and pebbly outcrops, sheltered by a small island just offshore, which gives Playa de La Isla its name. The calmer water makes it a good choice for families and beginner paddleboarders, with board rental usually available in season. At low tide you can walk across Playa Barrigón (big belly beach) to the more exposed Playa Espasa and Playa Moracey - all the time with the green mountains as a backdrop.
There are a handful of bars and restaurants nearby, including a relaxed chiringuito in front of the hotel, making it easy to spend the whole day here.
For a little local history, look out for the Roman remains on the western side of the beach, a small reminder that this peaceful stretch of the Asturian coast has been used for centuries.
Playa La Griega
Jurassic beach
Between Colunga and Lastres. A vast sandy beach with rocky outcrops with the Sierra del Sueve as a backdrop.
At the top of the beach there's a walkway to teh rocks where you can see the dinosaur footprints on the rocks..
Ther are a couple of bars nearby and a row of restaurants on the western side where you can enjoy a the local seafood and the stunning beach views.
Playa Cuevas del Mar
Amazing rock formations
Bewteen Llanes and Ribadesella This very small cove- interesting caves at low tide.
Popular with rock-climbers (interesting to watch while you're sunbathing or enjoying a refreshment) there's also a nice jazzy bar-cafe right by the beach. Nearby Nueva is a nice village and has plenty more bars etc.
Playa de Barro
West of Llanes and Celorio a lovely family beach with rock pools where you may even find large shrimps, octopus etc. A fantastic setting!
Barro also has a nice selection of bars and restaurants
Playa La Franca
Between Colombres and Llanes this is the most easterly beach in Asturias and one of its best!
Especially good at low tide when the cove opens up with interesting rocks and caves to explore.
There's a bar serving snacks and refreshments and the hotel at the top of the beach has a good restaurant.
Playa de Vega & Arenal de Morris
Wild surf and hippy-chic
These two 'wild' beaches between Ribadesella and Colunga are popular with surfers and in recent years have become fashionable with a certain hippy-chic style.
There are a handful of bars and restaurants at the eastern end of Playa Vega including the fashionable Gueyo Mar - but don't expect a cheapy!
Playa de Silencio
Legendary northern beauty
Between Cudillero and Luarca, Playa del Silencio is one of the most dramatic beaches on the Asturian coast. A wild, cliff-backed crescent of dark sand, shale and surf-battered rock, it has an almost legendary quality and captures northern Spain at its most raw and beautiful.
This is not really a bucket-and-spade beach, but it is wonderful for a bracing walk, photography or simply taking in the views. The path down to the beach is quite steep, but even if you only admire it from the clifftops it is still well worth a visit.
For spectacular sunset, continue to nearby Cabo Vidio lighthouse, one of the finest coastal viewpoints in northern Spain. On a clear evening, the cliffs, sea and sky put on a magnificent show, and nearby Oviñana has a few good bars and places to eat afterwards.
Playa de Otur
Surf's up
Near the village of Otur, Playa de Otur is a beautiful, open beach known for its surf, rock formations and lush coastal vegetation. It has a wilder feel than some of Asturias’ more sheltered coves, making it especially appealing for surfers, walkers and anyone who enjoys the raw Atlantic character of the western Asturian coast.
Access is from Otur village, with the beach reached by a quiet local road.
In summer months there's a nice little beach bar / cafe.
Frequently Asked Questions about Things to See and Do in Eastern Asturias & Picos de Europa
Getting there
With the airports and ferry ports of Santander and Bilbao as well as Asturias / Oviedo airport (near Áviles) this region has excellent access by air and sea:
Flight connections from-to:
- Stansted: Santander or Asturias / Oviedo with Ryanair
- Gatwick: Bilbao with Vueling or Easyjet; Asturias / Oviedo with Ryanair
- Manchester: Bilbao with Easyjet
- Dublin: Santander with Ryanair / Bilbao with Aer Lingus
- Edinburgh; Santander with Ryanair
Ferry: if you wish to bring your own car, classic car or motorbike we can include the ferry crossings as part of the package
Ireland-Spain Combined Timetable
*check our tour pages for up to date details of flights and ferries
Getting around
As part of your package we will include a hire car. Normally we include a 4 door economy class car but please let us know if you would like something different.
Make it happen...
To get to know all the facets of this uniquely we would recommend our Discover Asturias tour, which combines Picos de Europa, West Coast and Western Highlands is the ideal place to start.
Asturias combines well with Cantabria and Galicia or with the interior provinces of León and Burgos. If it's your first time in northern Spain, try our Picos de Europa and North Spain Coast which includes a stop in eastern Asturias along with the Cantabrian Picos and coast.
If you have more time and would like to get a broader feel for northern Spain our Santander to Santiago and back or our Grand Tour of Northern Spain both include stops Asturias and can be adjusted to your requirements.
Contact us - or give us a call on 01223 328721 to discuss your requirements - we're more than happy to combine and adapt the tours to suit your personal needs and ensure you get the perfect northern Spain itinerary!


