Insider Guide: The Best Things to See and Do in Cantabria

At the heart of Cantabria and, for many, the entry point to northern Spain, the beautiful bay of Santander not only offers a natural harbour but lovely sheltered beaches right beside the city centre. Favoured by the royals at the turn of the century the city centre has a definite Belle Epoque feel to it and the royal Palacio de la Magdalena stands proud on the headland which all but closes the bay as testament to those days. Often overlooked or thought of as ust a port of entry, Santander is deservedly 'on the up'  - a beautiful, lively city, steeped in history and with plenty of great restaurants and tapas bars, a fine maritime museum, sandy beaches - and great shopping too!

Insider tip: If staying east of the city take the little ferry from Somo into the heart of Santander - an experience to remember! Or head the other way to escape the city for the beaches of Somo or the golf courses where Ballesteros learned his craft.

Ferry passengers, don't forget: If returning to the UK by ferry you can park on the dock from 9.00 and wander into town - enough for a quick visit if you didn't make it to Santander during your trip...

Unlike San Sebastian or perhaps Barcelona, Santander keeps fairly quiet about its beaches, yet the city boasts 10 city beaches set around its beautiful bay or facing the Cantabrian Sea. Perhaps the most famous of which is El Sardinero, pictured here, but there are plenty more beaches some surfy, some sheltered, as well as Somo across the bay to which you can take a foot-ferry and marvel at the ships coming into the bay from the beach.

Don't forget: When visiting Santander be sure to pack your cozzie! 

Designed by the architect Renzo Piano, this spectacular modern building sits in an enviable position on the quay near the ferry port in Santander and has lifted the image of the city's seafront. Opened in 2017, it  has the most splendid views of the bay and is backed by the lovely 'Jardines de Pereda'. 

With permanent and temporary art exhibitions, musical events and other cultural activities in the stunning auditorium, it is well worth a visit.

Insider tip: There is a stylish cafeteria and restaurant too, serving snacks throughout the day and full meals.

If you love history this is an absolute ' must-see' a  treat for kids and adults alike, but especially for history lovers when visiting Cantabria and will put everything you see around the region into perspective.

The MUPAC, Museo de Prehistoria y Arqueologia de Cantabria covers the history of Cantabria from the first humans to the present day in a well thought out and easily flowing visit. In English and French, the museum is full of interactive displays using the latest technology, it is a fascinating insight into the region.

The most interesting of Cantabria's huge range of archaeological treasures are on display, including incredibly detailed pieces found in Cantabria's many prehistoric caves, some of the oldest in the world, and the most important of the many Roman, Celtic and Visigothic relics found in the region. 

Please note: MUPAC is now in a new modern building under the Mercado del Este, just behind the main Paseo de Pereda in Santander.

Our advice: There's plenty to see so allow 2 or 3 hours for the visit. It's not usually necessary but you can book MUPAC tickets online

Cabarceno wildlife park should be an essential part of any family holiday in Cantabria. Set in the most dramatic scenery where startling red rock formations contrast with the rich green of Cantabria, here the animals all have lots of space to wander freely whilst being easy to observe.

DON'T MISS - There are several shows every day including birds of prey. In 2014 two baby gorillas were the stars of the show. You can tour Cabarceno wildlife park in the car (recommended), by foot or by bicycle (not for the faint hearted). There is now a cable-car going 6kms round the park, a wonderful way of seeing all the animals in their habitats. Cabarceno is the largest park of its kind in Europe. 

Our tip: Book Cabarceno Wildlife Patrk tickets online to avoid disappointment, especially at weekends. And go early before the Spanish crowds.

Fascinating fact: - the whole of Madrid zoo would fit in the elephant enclosure!

The Liébana Valley, centred around the medieval town of Potes, remains our favourite gateway into the Picos de Europa National Park, although we have a real soft spot for neighbouring Asturias too. When we first visited more than 40 years ago, there seemed to be more cows than people. That has changed over the decades, but Liébana still feels remarkably unspoiled, with quiet villages, traditional farming landscapes and a slower pace of life.

Protected by mountains on all sides, the valley has its own distinct microclimate, which helps keep the landscape green well into the warmer months and makes the area particularly attractive for walking and touring from spring, with its wildflowers and butterflies through to late autumn, when the native woodlands are a joy to behold.

Rising dramatically straight from the rugged coastline to a height of over 2600m (very nearly twice Ben Nevis), the spectacular Picos de Europa form the rocky heart of northern Spain. The Picos, as they are commonly known, are divided into three massifs, in Asturias the Central and Western, which are dramatically divided by the mile-deep Cares gorge - providing one of the region’s most famous walking routes - and the Eastern, which sits above the Valle de Liébana on the Cantabrian side, centred on the town of Potes.

Home to bears and wolves as well as a host of birds of prey, vultures and other bird life as well as a myriad of butterflies, this is a nature lover’s dream and a paradise for walkers of all abilities, mountaineers, cyclists and all who enjoy adventure sports.

For walking routes there's an excellent visitor centre in Tama, the Casa de la Naturaleza in Pesaguero and the Tourist office in Potes - and your hotel owners are a mine of information.

Best book for walkers: The Sunflower Guide to the Picos de Europa is also an excellent source for this area in particular.

Get the app: For route planning ahead of time as well as on-the-ground navigation we always use Wikiloc, an excellent resource. Founded in Spain, the platform features a wealth of well-documented routes throughout the Peninsula.

At the heart of the Valle de Liebana, Picos de Europa, lies medieval Potes which, to this day, serves as the cultural and commercial centre for the area.

The picturesque town lies at the crossroads of the three natural routes in and out of the valley; to the coast, to León and to Palencia and as such is steeped in history, of particular interest being nearby Santo Toribio de Liebana which is said to house a piece of the holy cross. 

Lively with Spanish mountain lovers, and lively at the weekends and in the summer, Potes has plenty of bars and restaurants in which to sample the hearty local fare, but the main attraction is the fantastic scenery and the walking in this unspoilt rural valley which at times appears lost in time.

Insider tip: The riverside walk in Potes, heading east towards Ojedo from the medieval Torre del Infanto, is peaceful and atmospheric - we always find ourselves going for a wander. It's also handy on days when the town is busy - park at the Ojedo end of town and walk in by the riverside.

Combine mountains and coast: Potes is just an hour's drive from the coast, so those staying here can easily enjoy an afternoon at the beach - or vice-versa...

A trip to the stunning Picos de Europa mountains should always include the experience of taking the cable car on the awesome and, for some, vertigo-inducing ride up the sheer cliff from Fuente Dé to the Mirador del Cable 1800 metres above.

Once at the top you can continue for 4km to the Refugio de Aliva, a popular modern version of the old mountain refuge where you can have a refreshment before taking the path that leads you down to Espinama below, not far from Fuente De - a very pleasant and exciting days outing.

For the less energetic there are jeep rides too, or just go up and wander about a bit - you won’t be disappointed.

Important advice: Be warned, it's advisable to book the Cable Car at Fuente De online, ahead of your visit

Insider tip: There are often queues for the cable car in the high season and at weekends, go early (the locals usually don't) or take a packed lunch and go at Spanish lunchtime (13.30 - 16.30).

At the eastern end of the Picos de Europa, in the province of Cantabria, lies the beautiful Valle de Liébana. Accessed by way of the vertiginous gorge of La Hermida and protected on all sides by towering, rocky mountains which ensure the valley a benign micro-climate, this is the perfect base from which to explore the Picos de Europa.

At the centre of the valley is the medieval town of Potes which, though busy in the summer, is well preserved and retains its authentic character. Here, as well as the excellent cheeses, pastries and liqueurs, you’ll find all finds of mountain activities on offer. 

Other attractions include the monastery of Santo Toribio, a major pilgrimage destination, said to house a piece of the True Cross and no visit would be complete without a ride up to the giddying heights in the cable car at Fuente Dé.

Be weather-wise: though surrounded by alpine mountains, often snow-capped as late as June, the valley floor is little over 300m - and this is Spain. So do pack T-shirt and shorts but don't forget a fleece and windproof as those warming degrees drop sharply as you head up the mountains.

Get off the beaten track: Potes is wonderful but we've always found the real charm of Liebana is in the countless tiny villages and hamlets dotted around the valley. Head up to Cahecho for spectacular views - our favourite spot for a sundowner, Mogrovejo where they made a film version of Heidi, or Pendes to marvel at the awesome 1000-year-old chestnut trees. Follow any sideroad and you'll find a fascinating rural world, lost in another time, and delightful walks which don't feature on any guidebook or map.

Tucked into a hollow by the river Deva in the sleepy village of Lebeña, you couldn’t ask for a more idyllic setting for this most exquisite, little, Pre-Romanesque (Mozarabic) church.

Built in 925, and flanked by an olive tree and stub of a yew tree of the same age, it is as impressive as any of the more famous churches in the region. Though restored little over a century ago, Mozarabic elements remain along with Visigothic and Celtic features. A true delight.

The little village of Mogrovejo, between Potes and Fuente De, must be one of Cantabria's prettiest. Its location alone, with the dramatic Andara massif as a backdrop and the craggy Monte Subiedes with its colony of vultures at the fore, is stunning. With its imposing medieval tower, charming C17th church and handsome traditional houses, it is not surprising that it was chosen as the location for the unfortunately never-released "Heidi".

For walkers: Mogrovejo is a wonderful base for walks and with options for all abilities - check out Wikiloc

Stay in style: Hotel del Oso just down the road in Cosgaya is a fantastic base for walkers (they provide route sheets to Mogrovejo as well as other local walks). Close to Potes and a short drive to the Fuente de Cable car, you couldn't be better positioned.

The Monastery of Santo Toribio of Liebana (near to Potes in the Cantabrian mountains) stands alongside Jerusalem, Rome, Santiago de Compostela and Caravaca de la Cruz as one of only five places with the privilege to celebrate a Holy Year, granted by a Papal Bull from Julius II in 1512.

The privilege was granted as Santo Toribio guards the largest piece of the holy cross - the Lignum Crucis - brought here in the 7th century to protect it from the Moors.

Cantabria’s western coast is truly our heartland, and our home over the last four decades. Arriving from Madrid we fell in love with the wild beaches of Cóbreces and Oyambre, the gentle charms of Comillas and San Vicente and the untouched rurality of the interior, just a step away from the coast.

Times change but the region has lost none of its authentic character and is a wonderful introduction to this greener, less crowded and more traditional side of Spain.

Santillana del Mar, one of the highlights of any visit to Cantabria, is a beautiful village of grand old mansions the highlight being the Colegiata de Santillana del Mar at the top of the town. A short walk from the town centre lie the caves of Altamira, the 'Sistine chapel' of cave painting and there is a zoo with a particularly interesting butterfly house.

Perfect for touring: 30minutes' drive from Santander ferryport and airport Santillana makes a perfect first or last stop on any north Spain itinerary. It's also just an hour and a half into the Picos and a similar distance to Bilbao, so combines well or can be used as an ideal base to explore the whole area.

An early review (pre-TripAdvisor): Jean Paul Satre visited the town in 1935 with Simone de Beauvoir and reportedly described it as 'the most beautiful town in Spain.

Not for the faint hearted: this quaint little town has a dark side -the Museum of Torture houses gruesome artefacts from the Spanish Inquisition to more modern times - you've been warned!

Historic Comillas, set on a lovely bay with a nice sandy beach and little, protected fishing harbour is surely one of Cantabria´s most beautiful towns and certainly a favourite of everyone here at Caminos.

Favoured by royalty in the 'Belle Epoque' Comillas boasts a fine collection of Modernist architecture including Gaudi's Capricho and the Palacio de Sobrellano as well as a lovely old town.

Go native: you can't really get into the Cantabrian swing of things without taking part in the traditional hora del vermut the pre-lunch ritual, around one to one-thirty, of taking a chilled glass of vermouth (or a white wine if you're not keen). This is popular all over Spain but the Cantabrians are particular aficionados of the art and Comillas is one of the best places to practice. For the full Cantabrian experience enjoy it with some salty anchovies from Santoña or a tasty gilda - anchovy, olive and guindilla pepper on a skewer. 

Give it a try: our favourite variation on vermouth, popular across northern Spain is the Marianito - vermouth mixed with a dash of bitters and Campari - handle with care!

Northern Spain's magnificent collection of 17 caves with Cro-Magnon artworks have recently awarded the status of Unesco World Heritage Site, in fact Altamira, the jewel in the crown, has enjoyed this status for some years .

The caves are spread along the coast from the Basque country, through Cantabria, where the highest concentration is to be found, to Asturias and they lie mostly between the Cordillera Cantabrica and the sea, making a visit easy to combine with a great seaside holiday.

Our advice: Be sure to book the Neo-cueva de Altamira online, you really don't want to miss this one!

El Soplao cave, considered as one of the great treasures of world geology was once a mine, but in 1975 when that was closed speleological exploration began to reveal a unique and spectacular crystallographic content.

Situated 62 kms from Santander in beautiful natural surroundings, this is a visit not to be missed.

Apart from stalactites and stalagmites. the helictites formations are truly exceptional.

The Soplao caves are reached by a mining train which is great fun for the kids (of all ages) and there is a tour on foot through the tunnels and rooms of La Gorda, Los Fantasmas, Mirador de Lacuerre, Centinelas and Ópera lasting about an hour. For the more adventurous there are longer tours of two and a half hours covering 6 kms.

Our advice: book your visit to Cueva El Soplao online ahead of your visit. 

Insider tip: there's a decent cafeteria at the caves, ideal for a light lunch.

A long-time favourite of ours Carmona is a little gem of a village, beautifully preserved and a great place to stop off for lunch or just a wander about.

Carmona is strategically placed halfway round the Saja - Nansa route, a circular route, starting from the coast and exploring two of Cantabria's loveliest valleys.

The active fishing port of San Vicente de la Barquera sits at the gateway to the Oyambre Nature Park and with the Picos de Europa as a backdrop.

For centuries San Vicente de la Barquera has been an important staging post on the Camino de Santiago and so there are plenty of historic monuments to visit as well as plenty of fishy treats to savour.

Our insider advice: work up an appetite walking up to the church / castle at the top of the hill for panoramic views of the estuary, the beaches beyond and the Picos de Europa behind - then down to the main street for a vermouth or a full-blown fishy lunch - this is one of northern Spain's top spots for seafood with plenty of restaurant choices for all budgets.

The eastern coast and highlands of Cantabria are often overlooked even by Spanish tourists - and we quietly hope it stays that way. The coast, between Bilbao and Santander, is more built-up than the west coast, but explore beyond the main resorts and you’ll find treasures like Castro Urdiales, for Bilbao pintxo culture at Cantabria prices, or the delightful, surfy beaches of Galizano, Berria and cliff-backed Liencres.

For us, though, the real appeal of Eastern Cantabria are the valleys of Asón, Miera and Pas, steep green hillsides leading on to stark glacial valleys, stone-built villages on winding mountain roads and a deep sense of rural isolation. It’s one of the quieter corners of Northern Spain and still feels remarkably untouched by mass tourism.

Cantabria is defined by its valleys and in the east there are two little-known gems in the Ason and Miera valleys which head inland from Laredo and Lierganes respectively.

Dramatic sparsely populated glacial valleys, which run parallel to each other make an ideal circular tour. Don't miss the source of the Rio Asón or cave-trekking or walking in the Collados de Asón nature park - there is a great Visitor's Centre in La Gandara and the lovely spa town of Lierganes is worth a visit.

Stay in style: We always recommend the historic Hotel Palacio de Ruesga - at the entrance to the valleys yet close to the coast, Santander and Bilbao, the perfect base for a touring holiday combining Cantabria with the Basque Country.

Insider tip: the lower part of the Asón offers the best canoeing in northern Spain - a peaceful paradise, with an adrenaline twist!

One of the smallest visitable caves but a real favourite with paintings of red hind and occupation dating back 45,000 years - limited to 6 people at a time & advance booking essential.

Insider tip: this cave is our insider tip, little-known and a rare privilege - an experience to remember  book Cueva de Covalanas online

Join in with the local tradition: finish off the day with Chocolate y Picatostes (hot chocolate and sweet croutons) down in Limpias.

Not strictly Cantabria (it's just over the border into Biscaya) but Torre de Loizaga is an absolute must-see whilst in the Eastern valleys.

The largest collection of classic & vintage Rolls Royce cars in Europe, possibly the world, in a stunning hill-top castle setting.

Practical info: Open to the public Sundays only 10.00 to 15.00 (private guided tours available for groups at any time - ask the Caminos team).

In the rolling hills of Eastern Cantabria the Valle de Pas has been inhabited by humans since the Palaeolithic age, evidence of which can be seen in the fine cave paintings at Puente Viesgo.

More recently the Pasiego people have dedicated themselves to farming and herding cattle and have developed their own distinct culture in these isolated valleys.

There is a fine heritage of monasteries and Romanesque temples to visit as well as some fantastic walking and one of northern Spain's best Spas at Puente Viesgo.

Eat like a local: for us no visit to the Valle de Pas is complete without sampling the local dairy produce. Our favourite take-aways are quesadas (a simple, but oh-so-rich, cheesecake) and sobaos (dense sponge cakes made with the local butter) - a moment on the lips...

At the gateway to the Valle de Pas, Puente Viesgo is a pretty village set right on the river, famous for its elegant spa. don't miss a visit to the caves here. Whilst not as grandiose as the Altamira Cave you can still see the original paintings and get a better feeling of how the Cro-Magnon people lived - truly fascinating.

Although only half an hour from Santander (there's a 'Via Verde' cycle path right from the city centre) you can already feel a change of pace here and there are some great little bars and restaurants.

Eat like a local: make sure to sample the local produce made with the unusually creamy local milk - a packet of buttery 'Sobaos' should last you a week - bet they don't though!

There are two caves in Puente Viesgo: La Cueva de El Castillo and La Cueva de Las Monedas. Pre-historic art can be seen in both caves. For more information and booking visit Cultura de Cantabria website.

Containing the oldest known cave-art in the world (dating back to at least 40,800 years) a visit to the Cueva del Castillo in Puente Viesgo is highly recommended.

The caves are quite small and the artwork simple (in comparison with Altamira certainly) but well worth the visit as you not only see the original art (as opposed to a replica) but also the distribution of the cave, with living quarters near the entrance and the sacred parts, dedicated to worship, in the deeper recesses - makes the visit really quite special.

Insider tip: we always suggest visiting first the neo-cueva and museum de Altamira in Santillana del Mar where the visitor centre gives an insight into the background and history of the 18 caves which make up the World Heritage site. Then a visit to Puente Viesgo and the cave of Covalanas will give you the full picture - and memories to last a lifetime!

Called Flaviobriga by the Romans, Castro Urdiales is set on a cliff between Bilbao and Santander, and preserves a fine old quarter with a lovely harbour. The town is dominated by the ruined Templar castle and the fortress-like Gothic Church of Santa Maria constructed almost entirely in the 12th century and is full of all sorts of curious details like rabbits kissing oxen, dragons devouring servants. 

Gastronomic delights: If hunger sets in you are spoilt for choice for bars serving the most tempting, mouth watering pintxos - little snacks which make a meal in themselves - Basque-style snacks at Cantabrian prices!

One of our favourite outings, the path around Monte Buceiro offers a lovely, fairly gentle, walk with fantastic views of the bay of Laredo and the coast beyond towards Bilbao. There are several options, all the way round (views over Playa Berria and the marshes of Santoña) halfway round and over the top (through the holm oak forest) or out-and-back as far as you fancy.

A challenge: For those who like a challenge (and have good knees) there's a nice one awaiting at roughly the halfway point - the steps of the Faro del Caballo lighthouse. 760 very steep double-depth steps take you right back down to sea level and you could even swim back, back to where you started from. The views are fantastic and well worth the effort but it's really not for the faint hearted!

Oyambre beach set in the beautiful protected nature park of Oyambre with the snow capped Picos mountains as a backdrop, situated between the delightful historic seaside towns of Comillas and San Vicente de La Barquera must be one of the finest, unspoilt stretches of golden sand backed by dunes anywhere in Spain. 

Something for everyone: With its totally sheltered estuary to one side, ideal for young families, the main beach washed by the ocean surf is great for jumping in and out of the waves, surfing when the wind is right or just enjoying a good swim. Plenty of space for all with only a couple of beach bars, the natural beauty of this place is unique.

Fascinating fact: the Pajaro Amarillo beach bar is named after L’Oiseau Canari an early trans-atlantic French plane who's endeavour to fly non-stop from Maine to Paris was cut short when it ran out of fuel and had to land on Oyambre beach. No fault of the pilots, the fueling miscalculation was due to a stowaway (the world's first airborne stowaway perhaps) but they took it in good spirits, the three travellers opening a bottle of bubbly to celebrate - different times!

Comillas beach, a perfect stretch of golden sand set on a lovely bay with a small fishing harbour at one end is surely one of Cantabria's most beautiful.

Favoured by royalty from the 'Belle Epoque' through to the present day, the town of Comillas boasts a fine collection of Modernist architecture including Gaudi's Capricho as well as a lovely old town.

All this provides the perfect backdrop to the bay where the sea invites to swim in at any time. The little fishing harbour still sees the colourful fishing boats come and go and in the two typical bars there you can get the real taste of the sea even on Christmas Day.

The beach gets quite busy in the summer, but is one of the best beaches for swimming (as it has a protected orientation) - go there in the morning before the Spaniards get out of bed!

Our top spot: set up high at the western end of the beach Restaurante El Cantabrico is an all-time favourite of ours - truly unbeatable for the views (see main photo above). A wonderful bar and good value whether for a vermouth, a few tapas or a fishy lunch. Pop in on your way to the beach to book a table and go a little early before it gets crowded (on a beach day that's before 2 o'clock-ish).

At one time our 'little secret', but now becoming better known. Prellezo beach, just west of San Vicente de La Barquera, a sandy, secret cove at one time, now more popular in the summer, might be difficult to find but it's well worth the effort.

This is a very special place with fantastic, theatrical rock formations and imposing archways reaching from the fine sand into the sea.

It's just a little cove- rocks, sand, rock pools and no scary surf. Great for swimming, crabbing and pottering about.

Do beware: when the tide rises it comes rushing in and can catch you by surprise, especially if the sea is rough!

Beautiful Cobreces beach, where the lush green grass meets the sea, and where the Casas Cantabricas story truly started, is a shell-like bay flanked on either side of its golden sands by cliffs and pastures. Ideal for all the family with all the elements of the perfect north Spain beach.

Children can be amused for hours jumping in and out of the waves, playing bat and ball or shrimping in the fascinating rock pools. Adults can just lie back and enjoy the sun and the sea breeze, stroll along the shore or take a refreshing dip in the sea.

Authentic eating, right on the beach: When hunger strikes there are two good bars with restaurants serving tasty fishy delights and crisply roasted chicken, there's even an ice-cream van for the little ones. Nothing too fancy but it's kept us going back year after year. Paradise.

One of our favourites Galizano is a nice family beach with fine golden sand in a country setting. There are plenty of little coves and rock pools to explore and the beach is big enough that there's room for everyone. It can be quite surfy so take care. There's a small snack bar (a hut) right on the beach and bars & restaurants in the village nearby.

The practical stuff: the parking is about 500 metres from the beach itself which is reached by a sloping track (well surfaced and wide).

If you arrive by ferry from England you'll see this beautiful beach on the port side as you approach Santander. Somo beach, a long sweep of fine golden sand terminates at its western extreme, El Puntal, in the dunes which form the opening of the Santander bay.

Very popular with surfers, there are some schools here who specialise in English clients, the outer beach is quite wild and exposed. There are great views of the city and the Palacio de la Magdelena from here or you can just watch the shipping come and go from the bay.

At low tide there's a shipwreck just under the water in the middle of the beach. Popular with Santandereños, there's a small foot-ferry which goes from Somo right into the city centre - ideal to combine a beach day with a city visit.  

Loredo is a huge expanse of fine, golden sand, dune-backed, just to the east of Somo beach. Great for surfing and kiting. 

The Cantabran coast is often a `surfy’ one, and there can be strong currents on certain beaches. There are plenty of places to enjoy a swim, but do take heed of any warning notices and also of the flag system if in use:

• green=safe
• yellow=caution
• red=prohibited/dangerous

Caution is always advisable on any beach, especially with young children.

Where there is no lifeguard surveillance or flag system, we strongly advise against swimming. In all situations, it is best to swim where others are swimming rather than alone.