Scenic Drive - La Rioja Wine Route by Car

This circular route explores the western half of the Rioja DOCa, where the wine region straddles the autonomous communities of La Rioja and the Basque Country. Beginning in Laguardia, it follows quiet secondary roads through Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Alta, linking historic towns such as Elciego, Briones, Haro, Labastida and San Vicente de la Sonsierra before returning to its starting point.

Rather than following a single wine trail, the route has been designed to reveal the different personalities of Rioja. Along the way, you'll pass world-renowned contemporary wineries, centuries-old bodegas, medieval villages, vineyard-covered hillsides and viewpoints that explain why this landscape has become one of Europe's best-known wine regions.

The circuit can be driven in either direction, but I usually recommend starting in Laguardia. It provides a wonderful introduction to Rioja and there's a natural flow to the day as the landscapes gradually unfold.

Before setting off, it's worth knowing that Rioja isn't a single landscape or even a single administrative region. Instead, it's a wine-growing area that stretches across parts of La Rioja, the Basque Country and Navarra, with each area offering its own distinct character.

This route explores the two regions that together provide the classic Rioja experience: Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa.

Rioja Alta

Centred around Haro and Briones, Rioja Alta is the historic heart of the region's wine industry. Gentle hills, traditional bodegas and long-established vineyards create the landscape that many people picture when they think of Rioja.

It's home to some of Spain's most respected wineries, including the famous Barrio de la Estación in Haro, where several renowned bodegas stand side by side, such as Bodegas Bilbaínas, Bodegas Muga and Bodegas La Rioja Alta S.A.  

Rioja Alavesa

Crossing the River Ebro into the Basque Country, the scenery changes almost immediately. Sheltered by the limestone ridge of the Sierra de Cantabria, Rioja Alavesa combines beautifully preserved medieval towns such as Laguardia and Elciego with striking contemporary wineries, including Marqués de Riscal and Bodegas Ysios. The result is a landscape where centuries of wine-making tradition sit comfortably alongside modern architecture.

What about Rioja Oriental?

Sitting to the east of this route is Rioja Oriental (formerly known as Rioja Baja). Due to its location, it has a warmer, drier climate and produces wines with a distinctly different character.

While it forms an important part of the Rioja DOCa —and includes vineyards stretching into neighbouring Navarra. It lies outside this circular driving route, which focuses on the more scenic and historic western part of the region.

🗺️ A quick note on the names:

You'll often see both Rioja and La Rioja used, and they're not quite the same thing. La Rioja is one of Spain's autonomous communities, while Rioja refers to the wider wine-producing region.

As well as covering most of La Rioja, the Rioja wine region extends into the Basque Country and a small part of Navarra. That's why this route crosses regional boundaries while remaining entirely within Rioja.

After years of exploring Rioja, I’ve learned its true appeal lies far beyond the tasting room. 

This itinerary strikes a perfect balance. Dramatic medieval hill towns open up to sweeping vineyard vistas. Avant-garde architecture sits alongside centuries-old family bodegas. Best of all, scenic stretches behind the wheel alternate with nice walks through the villages. This deliberate pacing keeps the journey captivating, revealing Rioja as a living cultural landscape rather than a mere checklist of wineries.

The best travel memories aren't rushed. This route invites you to slow down, embrace the drive, and watch how the villages, valleys, and vineyards piece together Rioja's rich story. I think the magic is in the rhythm.

🏨 Where We Like to Stay: Many of our clients enjoy this route while staying at our selected hotels in either Laguardia or Cuzcurrita del Río Tirón. We included them as part of our collection because they offer the character, quality and hospitality we look for in every Caminos self-drive itinerary, while also providing excellent bases for exploring Rioja. Safe parking is also a main criterion when choosing our accommodation. 

In any case, the route is equally easy to adapt if you're staying elsewhere in the region or visiting from the Basque Country, Navarra or the Pyrenees.

No matter which direction you’re arriving from—Bilbao, San Sebastián, Burgos or Pamplona—you’ll notice how gently Rioja announces itself.

Almost without noticing, the busier roads give way to quieter vineyard lanes. Rows of vines become more frequent, and the limestone ridge of the Sierra de Cantabria gradually begins to dominate the northern horizon.

Every time I drive into Rioja, I'm reminded that it isn't a landscape that tries to impress you all at once. Church towers emerge above the vines, small villages appear on distant hilltops, and each bend in the road seems to offer a slightly different perspective.

As I'm based in Pamplona, by the time I reach Laguardia, I've already settled into a different pace. The journey has become part of the experience, which is exactly how I think Rioja is best explored.

📍 Regional Approaches to Laguardia

Getting into Rioja is a straightforward drive from northern Spain's major transit hubs. All routes deliver you directly to the starting point in Laguardia:

• From Pamplona: Approximately 60 miles via the scenic Autovía del Camino (A-12). View Pamplona Routes
• From Bilbao: Approximately 70 miles via the AP-68 highway. View Bilbao Routes
• From Burgos: Approximately 70 miles via the AP-1 and N-124. View Burgos Routes
• From San Sebastián: Approximately 100 miles via the A-1 or AP-15 and A-12. View San Sebastián Routes

Although this is a circular route that can be joined from any point, I usually recommend beginning in Laguardia. As mentioned, many of our clients choose to stay here while exploring Rioja, and it makes a natural introduction to the region. If you're based elsewhere, though, the route is just as enjoyable in either direction.

Cars remain outside the medieval walls, so the town is explored entirely on foot. Narrow streets wind between stone houses, hidden squares and traditional bars, while beneath them lies a network of ancient wine cellars that has shaped life here for centuries.

Whenever I arrive, I try not to rush. I usually wander through the old town with no particular destination in mind, perhaps stopping for a coffee and simply enjoying the streets before returning to the car. It's an unhurried start that seems to set the tone for the rest of the day.

💡 My Top Laguardia Tip: Don't Miss the Hidden Colours

If there is one thing you cannot skip in Laguardia, it’s the polychrome portico at the Church of Santa María de los Reyes. The Gothic carvings date back to the 14th century, but the real magic is the vibrant stone paint added in the late 1600s. Thanks to an outer wall built to shield it from the elements, the colours look practically brand new.

The catch? You can't just walk in and look at it on your own. You must join a 30-minute guided tour, and it gets booked up fast. I always love a peaceful, early morning start to enjoy the village before the crowds arrive. However, I’d highly recommend checking the official tour schedules on Turismo Laguardia before planning your morning. If the tour times don't line up perfectly with an early departure, it is much better to circle back and see it at the very end of your trip rather than letting it delay your entire afternoon drive!

Before leaving Laguardia, I'm always tempted to make the short detour to Bodegas Ysios. Set beneath the Sierra de Cantabria, Santiago Calatrava's striking design seems to echo the line of the mountains behind it. Together with The Marqués de Riscal City of Wine, it's probably one of the most photographed wineries in Rioja, and I rarely pass this way without stopping for another look.

If you decide to visit Ysios, simply return to Laguardia before taking the A-3210 towards Elciego in the Rioja Alavesa. The road winds through open vineyard country, with broad views across Rioja Alavesa while the Sierra de Cantabria gradually slips behind you.

As you approach Elciego, the titanium forms of Marqués de Riscal begin to appear above the village rooftops. Designed by Frank Gehry, it's one of those buildings that somehow manages to feel both unexpected and completely at home among the vineyards. No matter how many times you have seen it, the first glimpse never loses its impact. However, it is a controversial landmark. While some critics dismiss it as a futuristic mismatch for a traditional village, others, like me, absolutely love it.

Even if you don't plan to tour either winery, I think both deserve a stop. Together they show how Rioja has embraced contemporary architecture while remaining firmly rooted in centuries of wine-making tradition.

📸 Photo Tip: How to Enjoy the Architecture

You do not need to buy a tasting ticket to appreciate these striking landmarks, but you must respect property boundaries:

• At Ysios: The access road up to the winery is open to the public. You can park just outside the main gate and capture the perfect symmetrical shot of Santiago Calatrava's undulating aluminum roof mirroring the Sierra de Cantabria ridge behind it.

• At Marqués de Riscal: The Frank Gehry hotel structure sits behind closed security gates reserved strictly for overnight guests and tour ticket holders. The absolute best view for non-visitors is from the outskirts of Elciego—specifically from the elevated viewpoint near the San Andrés Church, where the pink and titanium ribbons contrast beautifully against the historic village rooftops.

Crossing the Ebro River from Elciego in the Rioja Alavesa brings you into La Rioja Alta, where vineyards roll uninterrupted toward Briones, one of the oldest wine villages in the region.

This is where I'd encourage you to resist the temptation to drive straight on to Haro. It's only a few kilometres away, but breaking the journey here creates a far better pacing for the day. A memorable road trip requires more than just time behind the wheel; it relies on taking the time to understand the landscape you are travelling through. Briones provides exactly that context before you reach the region's historic wine capital.

The village itself rewards a short walk, with its stone houses, quiet streets and views across the vineyards, but it's also home to one of Rioja's most remarkable attractions: the Vivanco Museum of Wine Culture.

Even if museums aren’t usually your thing, give this one a chance. Rather than focusing on a single winery, it explores the history, culture, art and traditions of winemaking from around the world. I've seen many visitors arrive expecting a quick visit and end up staying much longer than planned.

After Briones, Haro feels like the natural next chapter of the journey rather than just another pin on the map.

If Laguardia represents medieval Rioja and Elciego showcases its contemporary confidence, Haro tells the story of the region's commercial success. It was here, during the late nineteenth century, that Rioja's reputation began to spread internationally, helped by the arrival of the railway and the establishment of some of Spain's most influential wineries.

The famous Barrio de la Estación remains one of the highlights of any visit. Several historic bodegas stand within easy walking distance of one another, making it an ideal place to compare different producers without needing to move the car between tastings.

This is also where I nearly always linger over lunch myself. One of the pleasures of this route is that it allows time to do so. Rather than trying to fit in another winery, enjoy a relaxed meal and take time to absorb the atmosphere before continuing the drive. My personal favourite is Restaurante Beethoven, which cleverly splits into Beethoven I for casual tapas at the counter, and Beethoven II right next door for a traditional sit-down dinner

🍷 Plan your stop in Haro:

If you're planning to visit one or two wineries during the day, including tastings, Haro is probably the best place to do it. Decide in advance who will be driving for the rest of the day and plan your visits accordingly. The Barrio de la Estación brings several historic bodegas together, such as Bodegas Bilbaínas, Bodegas Muga and Bodegas La Rioja Alta S.A. within easy walking distance, while central Haro offers plenty of good places for lunch. 

Around La Herradura, a cluster of streets and squares in the historic centre, you'll find bars and restaurants that make this a good area to explore before choosing where to eat. For more ideas on what to see, do and eat in the region, see our La Rioja Destination Guide.

After a well-deserved lunch in Haro, I always look forward to this next stretch of the drive. Leave the town on the A-3202, heading east towards Labastida. Within a few minutes, you'll cross the River Ebro and re-enter the Basque Country, returning to Rioja Alavesa. The pace changes again as the road leaves the bustle of Haro behind, returning to vineyards, peaceful villages and the ever-present backdrop of the Sierra de Cantabria.

If time allows, I usually take a few minutes for a short walk through Labastida's attractive medieval centre before continuing. Like Laguardia, it's another historic wine town, but with a more relaxed, less-visited atmosphere.

📌 A note on the Sierra de Cantabria:

You may also see these mountains referred to as the Sierra de Toloño, particularly on the Basque side of the range. The terminology has a complicated history and both names are still encountered, sometimes referring to the whole mountain chain and sometimes to particular sections. So if you come across Toloño on local maps or signs, you're looking at the same mountain barrier that has accompanied much of this drive.

🍇 Optional detour

If you have time and would like to see a different side of Rioja's wine culture, take the short detour from Labastida up to the historic Remelluri estate.

Tucked into the high foothills of the Sierra de Cantabria, this property feels a world away from the larger, commercial estates across the main vineyard plains. There is an ancient medieval hermitage and a prehistoric graveyard with stone-cut tombs right on-site.

My Advice: I wouldn't try to squeeze Remelluri into an already packed day. Instead, use it as an alternative to another stop, particularly if you prefer smaller-scale wine estates and deep historical roots over large tasting rooms.

From Labastida, it's only a short drive to San Vicente de la Sonsierra, whose hilltop castle has watched over the River Ebro and the surrounding vineyards for centuries. If you've chosen to make the detour to Remelluri, you can rejoin the journey towards San Vicente afterwards.

The village is also known for the Picaos, a unique Holy Week penitential tradition that survives here and nowhere else in Spain.

The narrow streets are best explored on foot before climbing to the castle ruins. The walk is short, but the reward is one of the finest viewpoints on the entire route. From here, the vineyards of Rioja Alta spread across the valley while the Sierra de Cantabria rises beyond.

I often finish the day here because it brings the whole journey into perspective. Looking out across the landscape, it's easy to understand how the mountains, the River Ebro and generations of winegrowers have shaped Rioja's history, its wines and the villages you've travelled through.

From here, it's just a short drive back to Laguardia to complete the circuit, carrying with you a much deeper appreciation of why Rioja is far more than simply a wine region.

It's now time to return to Laguardia, re-entering Rioja Alavesa for the final stretch of the journey.

These last few kilometres are simply there to be enjoyed. There's no pressure to fit in another stop or attraction. Instead, it's an opportunity to process everything you've taken in today: medieval ramparts, cutting-edge architecture, ancient family bodegas, quiet secondary roads, and the constant, shifting presence of the Sierra de Cantabria.

If you're staying in Laguardia, you can take an evening stroll through the old town or a relaxed dinner overlooking the vines. If you're continuing elsewhere, the drive provides a satisfying conclusion to one of northern Spain's most spectacular scenic routes.

Rioja occupies a remarkably convenient position between the Basque Country, Navarra, Burgos and the Pyrenees, making it one of the easiest regions to include in a wider Northern Spain self-drive holiday.

It works particularly well as a two-night stage, giving you a full day for this circular drive without having to combine it with a longer transfer. Many of our itineraries link Rioja with the Basque coast, Picos de Europa or destinations along the Camino de Santiago, adding vineyards, gastronomy and historic wine towns to journeys otherwise shaped by Atlantic scenery, mountains and historic cities.

It's also a visual bridge between contrasting environments. Coming from the lush Basque Country, Rioja takes you inland to the sun-soaked vineyards and drier open horizons of the Ebro Valley; moving onwards towards Burgos, Navarra or the Pyrenees opens up several quite different directions for the next stage of your journey.

For a longer Northern Spain road trip, avoid treating Rioja as a mere drive-through region. Two nights will give you the freedom to enjoy this route as it was intended: as a day out in its own right.

This circular drive already fills a full day, so I wouldn't recommend trying to add every interesting place nearby. Instead, think of the route as something you can adapt according to what interests you most. A winery visit can be exchanged for a prehistoric site, a longer lunch for a walk, or part of the main route adjusted to allow more time for architecture or scenic driving. The suggestions below are different ways to shape the day rather than additional stops to squeeze into it.

For food lovers
Continue to Logroño and spend an evening exploring Calle Laurel, one of Spain's best-known streets for tapas and pintxos. It's a lively contrast to the quieter wine villages you've visited during the day.

For history
Consider dedicating part of an additional day to the UNESCO World Heritage Monasteries of San Millán de la Cogolla, closely associated with the earliest written examples of Spanish and Basque. They lie well beyond the circular route, so I wouldn't try to combine them with the complete drive in a single day.

For archaeology
Just outside Laguardia, visit the prehistoric dolmen of La Chabola de la Hechicera, one of several megalithic monuments scattered across Rioja Alavesa. Together they reveal that people were living, farming and burying their dead here thousands of years before the first vineyards appeared.

For avant-garde architecture
Allow more time around Laguardia and Elciego for Ysios and Marqués de Riscal. Rather than seeing them briefly from the road, make contemporary winery architecture one of the themes of your day and reduce the number of other stops accordingly.

For walkers

Exchange a winery or village visit for a walk through the vineyards around Laguardia or beneath the Sierra de Cantabria. Even a relatively short walk changes your perspective on a landscape you've spent much of the day seeing from the car.

For scenic driving
Venture onto the quieter secondary roads beneath the Sierra de Cantabria, where small vineyard tracks, hilltop viewpoints and changing perspectives reveal another side of Rioja that's easily missed from the main roads. You can also head south into the high peaks of the Sierra de la Demanda to visit Ezcaray, a charming village of stone houses and a very nice square packed with traditional bars ands restaurants. Beyond the town, the road climbs steeply into the mountains toward the Valdezcaray ski resort, offering sweeping views, crisp mountain air, and a dramatic shift that feels worlds away from the valley's wine landscape.

If your time in the region is short, you may be wondering whether you need to choose between Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa.

The honest answer is that they complement each other rather than compete. Once you're here, it's best to forget the administrative boundaries and think of Rioja as a single wine region with different landscapes and cultural personalities.

In little more than an hour, you can travel from traditional wineries and historic market towns to medieval hill villages and some of Spain's most striking contemporary wine architecture, while the scenery changes almost imperceptibly along the way.

That's one of the reasons this circular route works so well. Rather than asking you to choose between Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa, it allows you to experience both without long driving distances, revealing how each contributes to the character of one of Europe's great wine regions.

While this route makes an excellent full-day excursion if you're just passing through the region on your way to the next stage of your journey, it might be a rushed experience...and we don't want that. If you are planning a wider self-drive itinerary across Northern Spain, I'd strongly recommend that you “save” two nights for Rioja to really do it justice.

Arrive during the afternoon, settle into your hotel, and spend the evening wandering around before dinner. The following day, follow the circular route without watching the clock. You'll have time for a leisurely winery visit, a relaxed lunch, a stop at a viewpoint to enjoy the sea of vineyards, and the quieter back roads that many day-trippers simply drive past.

That slower pace reflects the way we usually design our own holidays and, in my experience, it's how Rioja is best enjoyed.

One of the first questions you'll probably ask yourself while mapping out your visit to Rioja is: which winery should I visit? The answer depends far more on what interests you than on finding the "best" bodega.

If it's your first visit to Rioja, I'd recommend choosing just one or two wineries rather than trying to fit several into the day. You'll enjoy the experience much more if you leave time to explore the villages, stop for lunch and appreciate the landscapes that make the region so distinctive.

Think about the kind of experience you're looking for:

• Architecture: wineries such as Marqués de Riscal and Ysios are obvious choices.

• History and tradition: the historic bodegas around Haro offer a very different perspective on Rioja's wine-making heritage.

• A more personal experience: smaller family-owned wineries often provide the opportunity to learn directly from the people behind the wines.

Whichever you choose, it's usually best to book ahead, particularly during weekends and the grape harvest. One well-chosen winery, enjoyed without watching the clock, will often leave a stronger impression than trying to fit several visits into a single day.

💡 My advice:

If you are basing yourself in the region overnight, a great strategy is to pick a winery within easy walking distance of your hotel. This allows you to fully enjoy a tasting session and sample the wines without any of the worry or logistical hassle of driving afterwards.

🗺️ Looking for inspiration?

Explore our Guide to Things to See and Do in La Rioja for more information about our preferred wineries, historic towns and attractions.

Wine may dominate Rioja's reputation, but food deserves just as much space in your day. I usually recommend making lunch one of the main stops on this route rather than trying to squeeze a meal between winery visits.

Haro is particularly convenient, with restaurants and traditional bars around the historic centre and La Herradura. Look out for regional dishes such as patatas a la riojana (potatoes with chorizo), menestra de verduras made with seasonal vegetables, and chuletillas al sarmiento, lamb cutlets grilled over vine shoots — a dish particularly associated with Rioja's wine-growing landscape.

💡 My advice:

Choose where you'd like to have lunch before setting out, particularly at weekends, and allow enough time to enjoy it properly. 

With relatively short distances and no particularly demanding driving, this is an enjoyable route to explore at an unhurried pace. A few practical points are worth bearing in mind before setting out:

• Roads: Most of the route follows well-maintained regional and local roads through open vineyard country. Some stretches are winding, but this is not a difficult mountain drive.

• Historic centres: Expect narrow streets, restricted access and pedestrian areas in some of the older towns. In places such as Laguardia, you'll need to leave the car outside the historic centre and continue on foot.

• Parking: Parking is generally straightforward, though the historic walled town of Laguardia poses a unique challenge. Because cars are strictly banned inside its medieval gates, finding an available spot in the designated perimeter lots can be difficult, particularly on busy weekends and during the autumn harvest. Don't let this put you off, though; the slight hassle is entirely worth it for the pleasure of exploring its historic streets completely free of traffic. Across the rest of the route, simply use the clearly marked parking areas on the edge of the towns rather than trying to navigate narrow historic centres.

• Winery visits: Many wineries require booking in advance, and visits generally take place at fixed times. If you have a reservation, allow some flexibility in your driving schedule rather than trying to arrive at the last minute.

• Wine tasting and driving: If you're including tastings, plan accordingly. Nominate a driver who won't be drinking or arrange an alternative way of getting back to your hotel. Don't rely on being able to taste at several wineries and continue driving.

• Harvest season: September and October are particularly interesting months to visit, but the grape harvest brings additional agricultural traffic to the vineyard roads and wineries can be especially busy. Allow a little extra time and book visits ahead.

• Classic cars: The route works particularly well for classic cars. Distances are short, the roads are generally manageable and there are plenty of opportunities to stop, though drivers should expect bendy roads, narrow village approaches and occasional agricultural traffic.

• Fly-drive and ferry-drive: Rioja fits easily into a fly-drive holiday if you're hiring a car and is equally a natural addition to a ferry-drive itinerary through Northern Spain if you're bringing your own car from the UK. If you're considering the latter, our guide to Taking your car on the ferry to Spain and Portugal covers the practicalities, advantages and points to consider. If you're flying instead, our Car rental guide has practical advice on hiring and driving a car during your holiday.

• Low Emission Zones: Low Emission Zone restrictions aren't generally a concern on this Rioja route, but they may become relevant if your wider journey takes you into larger cities such as Bilbao. Before travelling, check the latest requirements in our guide to Low Emission Zones in Northern Spain, as well as the current regulations for any cities on your itinerary.